Care Sheet for Turtles & Tortoises

      Care Sheet for Turtles & Tortoises

1) Eastern Box Turtle Care Sheet:

Here are a few tips for keeping the Eastern box turtle  (Terrapene carolina carolina) alive
and well in captivity, including care of the hatchlings. First off this is not an easy species to keep when compared to others, and I would never recommend this one to a "first-timer" at keeping turtles. As beautiful as some individuals of this species may be, the temptation may be strong to collect one during a walk through a field or woodland, and from experience they are best for photography only, and to be left right where they were found.

If collected and placed into captivity, even under the best of conditions only about 1-2 out of five will do really well for you, and the rest will experience problems (puffy eyes, refusing to eat, etc), and again are best used for a few nice pictures on location, then left right where they were found. Also keeping them year 'round is risky business because of hibernation, and in this article we'll take a look at these factors of keeping them successfully.

Sadly these are sometimes seen in pet stores outside their protected range, and if you have the chance to obtain a pet store specimen pick it up and look it over first. Many are very lightweight and malnourished, and if you see a really pretty one it may be the risk of purchase to try and restore it to health. If you do decide to buy one make sure it eats first, as some pet store turtles (probably wild-caught elsewhere and sold to the store, and have never been fed since the day they left the wild) may be too far gone to be recovered and it will be a waste of money to even try. If they allow it to be fed while you're there and if it eats, it may be well worth your effort to get it. Also before adding it to your shopping cart look at the eyes to see if they are bright and clear, and look for any signs of any fresh injury, etc.

Concerning the purchase of a pet store turtle, the first goal is to get some weight back on it. Also never mix it with other turtles because it could harbor an unseen disease that could quickly race through your entire collection! The first thing you'll want to do is get some weight on it, and the setup at first can be rather simple, such as a large (about 30-gallon) Rubbermaid-type container or 20-gallon aquarium, and over one end of it place a reflector containing a 40 or 60-watt bulb for heat.

I keep the setup as simple as possible. I place an object under one end of it to slant the container. I add water so about about 1/2 of it contains water, and 1/2 is dry land. I try feeding it several times a day. It won't eat at every feeding but I'm happy and thankful for the times it does. The setup I describe here is temporary only, unless your turtle really starts to thrive in this setup and seems happy there, since it's known that this species can sometimes fall back into ill health after being moved from one setup to another.

Concerning foods and feeding, one of the "nursery" foods I use to help add some weight and health back to it is a handful of 93% (or higher) lean raw hamburger or ground deer meat (concerning turtles, if you have deer meat ground into "hamburger", tell the butcher not to add any beef fat or other fillers to it), and to this meat add a pinch of RepCal, or similar reptile calcium powder and mix it well. This feeding also helps to tame your turtle. Once my turtle eats well I'll take it out and place the turtle on one hand while it takes food from the other. I feed it until it's full before placing it back into the container. Other important foods are nightcrawlers, small crayfish, and large crickets. Once it feeds normally I slowly switch it to a more vegetarian diet, by introducing bananas (concerning bananas, they like them on the ripe side rather than "green"), and red juicy strawberries, cantaloupe, and apple slices. If your turtle takes a liking to Romaine lettuce, so much the better! I also try to get them feeding on Purina Naturals cat food pellets sprinkled with Linatone, with just a dusting of RepCal. Once your turtle has gained weight and is bright and alert and feeding well I offer this cat food mix at least once a week, and since bananas are available all year, these are offered almost daily, and the hamburger is given several times a month as a special treat.

A common practice among summer camps and nature centers is to house a couple locally-caught specimens for the summer and to release them at the end of the season. This is not the best idea since this species doesn't like handling too well, and if the building is too cool, health problems will surely result, and if kept in a natural "woodsy" setup they will remain buried down out of sight for days at a time. I suggest getting a few nice pictures to mount in the building of this shy species, and collecting a couple aquatic turtles instead for the summer, since these are active and visible, and handling is less likely. Also the laws of the land for keeping these even temporarily may vary from state to state. In some states they are strictly forbidden in captivity.

Perhaps the best way to keep Terrapene carolina carolina successfully is in a large outdoor turtle pen. The larger the better, with plenty of morning sun and shaded areas available throughout the day as well. A pen constructed in a wind-protected area is best, such as on the South side of a building with plenty of vegetation to offer shade as well, and they can also be hibernated here later in the season. I prefer this over placing the pen in a woods, since a forest setting will be too much shade for them, however if you live in an arid region such as among the prairies or desert, more shade may be needed.

A note concerning arid regions, the ornate box turtle will thrive VERY well in arid regions. You may want to keep these instead if you live in dryer regions, but Easterns will do well if the area is well-protected from the wind and hot sun, and is sprayed down with a hose every other day or so during the long hot dry spells.

Dominant males are real fighters and will attack any other male added, so from experience I have learned to never keep more than one dominant male in among them, and if you have two dominant males it's best to set up a smaller pen for one separately, and about twice a month a female can be introduced to his enclosure if you plan on breeding them.

When building a pen it is best to bury the bottom a couple inches into the ground, and I do this by digging a narrow trench and dropping the fence into this and filling it back in. Also I bend the top of the fence inward to avoid having them climb out. They are true escape artists and I check the perimeter regularly to see if they've been burrowing next to the fence. I try to encourage a "burrowing area" for them, usually an area near the building where they will eventually hibernate, and to do this I dig down a foot or so and add a lot of sphagnum peat to make the soil extra soft in this area, and it's mixed together with a shovel, and kept a bit uneven and covered slightly with dead leaves, and during any month they have access to a place they can hide in. More about hibernation in a moment, but for their water I keep a very shallow (less than two inches deep) large plastic pan in there for them, and don't be surprised if they never use it! This species usually drinks water right off the ground when it is raining, but if the Purina Naturals mix is being fed to them, water is VERY important since the dry pellets demand a lot of moisture to digest.

For hibernation I keep a close watch on the temperatures, and usually sometime in late-September I place a few more dead leaves on the area that was dug for them and an old piece of carpet to encourage them to use that spot. They should start burrowing more deeply in October, and by November they should be nearly out of sight. At this point they should never be disturbed. They may emerge on warm days and some may even wander a bit, and on days such as these they will not eat. Around nightfall they should be placed back into their burrowing area if they haven't already went to it. Once cold weather has arrived and before the ground freezes, at this time I start to add a lot more dead leaves to the burrowing area. From personal experience I found the very best leaves to use are those of white oak (Q. alba) and hickory, since these don't pack down totally flat, and other leaves I find that are OK are sugar maple (A. saccharum), Sycamore (or any of the Planetrees, Platanus sp.) and any species of apple.

Once I place about a foot-thick pile of leaves over the area I place a piece of carpet over the area to keep the wind from blowing the leaves away. When I used to live in Ohio (a place with zero-degree winters at times) I would set up a temporary fence around the hibernating area to keep the leaves in place, and would drive to a nearby woods and fill several plastic trash bags full of oak and hickory leaves for them. With this setup, I had 100 percent hibernation success for them every year.

Concerning the hatchlings, these are difficult to get started, and sadly there are always a few that never really "take off" and for reasons unknown will die. On the average out of a group of ten, you'll lose about three, some will do poorly all along, and about five or six will do really well - even rivaling the Wood turtle (C. insculpta) in excellence. They will literally come running to you at feeding time and can be hand fed, and are flawless captives! For someone who wants just one pet turtle (that could easily outlive them!) I could hardly think of a better turtle! They go through many color and pattern changes as they grow, and within ten years they will look much like their parents, but will show the true "box turtle" pattern in about half that time. Here's their one downfall: Each one should be housed separately for the first six months or so, because when very young they will attack each other as "food," and nubbed tails, skinned heads, gouged eyes, and missing claws will be the result! Even in a good-sized container they will attack each other, often with injuries. When they are small I set them up in four rectangular plastic shoe boxes with one turtle per container, and with one reflector lamp placed over the area. The containers are tilted slightly so the water stays in one end. The water must be very shallow at all times because another bad habit these have (besides biting each other) is flipping themselves over onto their backs. In water deeper than a half inch they may easily drown. With some individuals this is never a problem, while with others they are on their backs about every time I walk into the room, and thankfully they will outgrow this after several months of good growth.

 Starting the young ones to feed is the tricky part concerning this species, and once they feed well you should have no problems (except for them biting each other, and flipping over) rest of the way with these, and an easy way I use to "start" them is to wait several weeks after hatching and the yolk sac is gone. At this point I'll take a tiny piece of meat and place it on a very thin stick or broomstraw and wiggle it at ground level about a half-inch in front of it. This should catch its attention. Once it takes the meat, this process is repeated, and if one refuses food, try placing it in very shallow water (just enough to cover its head) and try again, and some seem to prefer being "water turtles" until they begin feeding well. Also if the meat doesn't do the trick, try small sections of cut-up earthworms, and the natural movement will often tempt a strike. Once they're feeding well, about a month later I get mine onto a staple diet of ReptoMin, which are small green floating food sticks that make a good staple diet for them. From there I feed them meat, earthworms, and mealworms mostly, and after a year or so they'll take such foods as bananas and strawberries, which can be freely added in. Also keeping them reasonably stuffed with a variety of foods will allow them to grow normally, with no shell deformities.

 One last note concerning your box turtles. Let's say you have indoor turtles and you go on vacation for a week or so. No problem! Providing your turtle is healthy, simply cut back on its food about a week or so ahead of your vacation, and remove any water and add about a foot of moist dead leaves a day or so before leaving, and your turtle will dig down out of sight until you return. Also no additional light is needed during this time, and your turtle will be one less thing to worry about while you're relaxing on that cruise.

2) Reeve's Turtle Care Sheet:

Reeve’s turtle is the smallest member of the genus Mauremys, one of the largest genera of the Old World turtle family Geoemydidae. Their range extends  across central and eastern China, as well North and South Korea, Taiwan and Japan, where they inhabit lakes, ponds and small streams. This species shows a preference for slow-moving or still water with soft bottoms, abundant aquatic vegetation and ample basking sites. It has also been recorded in swamps, marshes and even flooded rice paddies.

Although there appears to be several distinct morphological forms (as might be expected with a wide-ranging species like M. reevesii), their habits and requirements are very similar. For the purpose of captive husbandry, they may all be cared for in the same manner.

Availability

Reeve’s turtles breed readily in captivity, and are frequently produced by hobbyists and, especially in China, turtle farms alike. As with most temperate species, Reeve’s turtle breeding is seasonally restricted to spring and summer, so captive bred babies are most commonly available from May through September. However, given the significant numbers of babies produced annually, they are usually available year-round, and their pricing is relatively low for an exotic species.

Size

In addition to their charming personality, another appealing aspect of Reeve’s turtles is their manageable adult size. Even the larger ‘megalocephala’ form of Reeve’s turtle rarely exceeds 9 inches, and specimens of the typical form are not normally more than 6 inches in length. Females attain a larger adult size than males, but unfortunately it is not possible to determine the gender of hatchling turtles from outward physical appearance alone.

Life Span

Reeve’s turtles have been known to live for over 20 years in captivity, so they can truly be a longtime companion. With proper diet, housing, and care, one can reasonably expect their Reeve’s turtle to live for at least 10-15 years.

Captive Habitat

Provided that some minimal housing requirements are provided, captive housing for Reeve’s turtles can be as simple or elaborate as the keeper decides to make it. Because Reeve’s turtles are not the best of swimmers, the depth should be kept relatively shallow, and about 3 times the turtle’s shell length should be considered a safe maximum. However, water that is too shallow presents a potential drowning hazard as well, because the turtle may not be able to right itself if it gets turned upside-down. So the water depth should never be less than about 1.5 times the length of the turtle’s shell. A basking area, on which the turtle can leave the water completely, with a good basking light to help the turtle thermoregulate, is an absolute must. An underwater hiding place should be provided as well, with care taken to ensure that the turtle cannot get trapped and drown. Non-toxic live or plastic plants can be provided for hiding and foraging, though the turtles will eventually shred any live plants whether they eat them or not. Although the tank bottom can be left bare, substrate (sand, gravel, etc.) can be used but should be sized such that it either cannot be swallowed or will pass easily through the turtle’s digestive tract.

Because they are lively and active turtles, Reeve’s turtles should be provided with as much room as possible. At a minimum, a single baby or Reeve’s turtle should be provided about 5 gallons of water volume; this does not mean a 5 gallon tank, but at least a 10 or 15 gallon tank partially filled so that there are actually 5 gallons of water. Increase the volume of water by 2-3 gallons for each additional baby turtle. As the turtle(s) reach adulthood and beyond they should be provided with a minimum of 20 gallons of water volume for the first turtle, with an additional 10 gallons of water volume for each additional turtle.

Reeve’s turtles are adaptable, and can be readily housed in practically any suitably sized tank. Stock tanks, glass aquariums, plastic totes, and garden ponds can all be furnished appropriately for housing individual or groups of Reeve’s turtles. They can be maintained indoors or out, and adequate protection from predators as well as escape prevention measures should be provided in either case.

Lighting & Temperature

As long as there is a good dietary source of vitamin D to metabolize calcium, UVA/UVB lighting can be provided but is probably not necessary. A good heat-emitting light should always be provided over the basking area, and if necessary either incandescent or fluorescent lighting can provide additional illumination. A household outlet timer can be employed to cycle the lighting on and off to provide a reasonable day/night cycle, and can be adjusted periodically to the appropriate seasonal photoperiod. The sun will of course provide heat and UV rays for turtles maintained outdoors, and no further lighting is necessary.

Temperature gradients should be provided for the water, ambient air, and basking area. Water should be maintained within the range of 70°F-80°F, ambient air between 75°F-85°F, and basking area between 85°F-95°F. Remember that temperatures within an aquarium – especially if there is a hood or cover installed – will likely differ from the temperatures within the surrounding room, so it is important to periodically check the actual temperatures in the tank rather than just relying on a general indoor thermometer/thermostat.

Diet & Feeding

There is a wide variety of commercial turtle food available on the market, and most have been formulated to provide optimum nutrition for aquatic turtles at all stages of growth. Pay attention to ingredient labels, and look for the following constituencies:

• 30%-40% protein
• Low fat content
• Vitamin D
• Calcium (Ca) to phosphate (Ph) ratio at least 2:1
• Vitamin and mineral supplementation

Reeve’s turtles are omnivorous, and in addition to prepared foods they will accept both animal and plant matter with equal enthusiasm. Along with fish, worms, and insects, they can also be offered green leafy vegetables as well as aquatic plants such as water lettuce, water hyacinth, and duckweed.

Health

Provided with suitable housing and diet, Reeve’s turtles will be active and energetic inhabitants of any turtle tank. But as with any organism, illness and disease can adversely affect them. Some indicators of health problems include:

• Swollen or sunken eyes
• Listing or inability to submerge
• Gaping or frothing at the mouth, or bubbles in the nose
• Excessive basking or refusal to enter the water
• Inability or refusal to feed
• Asymmetrical or irregular growth
• Obvious discoloration or open wounds on the skin or shell
• Any other abnormal appearance or behavior

If any of the problems listed above are noted with a captive Reeve’s turtle, immediate veterinary attention is necessary. Be sure to use a vet that specializes in turtles and tortoises, or at least reptiles and exotic animals. A list of local reptile vets can be found at www.arav.com.

Temperament & Handling

Although not truly social animals, Reeve’s turtles are capable of cohabitating with turtles of their own and other species with similar housing needs. Both sexes can exhibit dominant or territorial aggression, but this behavior is usually not severe enough to inflict serious injury as long as adequate space and hiding areas are provided. Still, it may be necessary to provide a larger habitat or even entirely isolate offending turtles if consistent aggression is noted.

Reeve’s turtles are not domesticated animals that thrive on human affection and contact, and they should not be handled except as a matter of necessity. Occasional handling to inspect the turtle for health or injuries, and occasionally relocating turtles to alternate containers for cleaning and maintenance of their primary habitat is acceptable. In any case, handling is best kept to an absolute minimum. Despite appearances to the contrary, handling is stressful to the turtle and subjects the handler to biting and scratching by the turtle. And as always, thoroughly washing hands with soap and warm water before and after a turtle or any related materials or equipment has been handled will help to avoid any disease transmission between human and turtle.

3) Wood Turtle Care Sheet:

The wood turtle (Clemmys insculpta) has been one of my favorites for years. This species is a lot of fun to keep and to raise, as they are for the most part very tame and friendly.

My childhood memories of walking through the open fields near the Muskegon River in Michigan as well as the Pocono Mountain region of Pennsylvania are captivated by the memories of this beautiful, gentle reptile, and in after spending many years living in their habitat I have learned much about them both in the wild as well as in captivity from raising them to maturity. In this article I'll pretty much limit the info to their captive care.

Finding this species on the market is still possible, but can be a bit pricey. Avoid buying wild-caught adults, since for one they're probably illegal, as well as probably unhealthy, and buying ANY wood turtle now from any state where they naturally occur is illegal. (Check your state for laws and permit processes) Mine came out of Florida and Texas many years ago from breeders that long since disappeared, and I strictly avoid mixing my captive collection with any from the wild (or even from another collection), since the risk of disease is just too high. It would be a tragedy to lose mine to an introduced disease, and even MORE tragic if a "wild" one was introduced to mine then later released, thus spreading some sort of "captive disease" to the wild population. I’t is good to remember to NEVER introduce any wild turtle to a captive population if you have plans on releasing it later, and again remember that introducing a wild one to your captive stock can wipe them out in less than a month.  From experience I have learned to leave the wild ones strictly alone, and use them for photography subjects only, and leaving them right where they are. 

Assuming you start yours as a hatchling, we'll start from the beginning. As babies they are fairly aquatic, but will spend a lot of time resting on land under a lamp, and like any reptile, trial and error will show you the best distance between the light source and your turtles, and once you get them feeding, the rest comes very easy. They will grow and grow! In the very beginning I will tempt them with a tiny piece of meat on the end of a broomstraw, and once they learn this means "food,”, I simply drop the small pieces into the water with them, and they will behave much like any water turtle. I feed them tiny earthworms, small crickets, mealworms, as well as Repto-Min.  Soon you will literally have them running right up to you at feeding time. They will feed both on land as well as in the water. 

Enclosure

For the actual setup when they are small, I use a Rubbermaid-type container, and simply prop one end up to give them land and water, and mount the lamp over it. They will grow very fast, and from my own experience I have kept the light on them for 24 hours, and they will develop a natural cycle according to when you normally feed them. Sometimes they get so "into" this cycle they will refuse food altogether when fed at a time when they're normally not fed - but will gobble with great gusto when it's their time! I also have other species which were raised right alongside them, and they feed and do very well together.

 When "power-fed" a male will mature in about three to four years, and in females about five, but add a year or two if fed regularly, and if chilled during the winter months, add another two years or so. Once they reach about five inches they can be kept either indoors or outdoors. Like all turtles, large ones are messy, You can rig a large tub with an indoor drain, to make cleanup easier. I placed mine outdoors, and they haven't been back inside ever since.

There are two main enemies to be concerned about, in fact, make it three! All will cost you your turtles if you're not careful. Raccoons, neighborhood kids, and disease. Coons will go in there at night and will easily drag them right over the fence, and even if the shell protects the turtle, it will crawl away later and probably end up drowned at the bottom of your neighbor's swimming pool or dead on the road. Also let NOBODY know you have them, since all it takes is one kid to know about them, and they will tell their friends, and just like with the raccoons, you will lose a couple a night, and you may not even notice it until it's too late. Also NEVER introduce yours to any other turtles, since disease will almost certainly put them out of commission permanently! Even so-called "healthy" stock will carry things that yours haven't been introduced to yet, and mixing them will easily cost their lives. As for me I live in the country and have a large piece of plastic under which they hide at night faithfully, and they are safe from coons, and by day I feed them on top of this, since this keeps the food off the dirty ground.

 Mine live in a large, outdoor fenced enclosure, and they are experts at escaping. It's been a long time since mine have tried to do so, but when they do they will try climbing over, and if this doesn't work, they'll try going under! I bend the top of the fence inward to stop them from going over, and the fence is buried about six inches into the ground, but even then it's a good thing to look for holes left there by something else! I remember when I lived in Ohio I had a groundhog (Marmota monax) dig under once or twice, and here in Florida I have had a few "mystery" holes appear every now and then, so I'm always prompted to look.

Feeding

As far as feeding goes, mine have been raised to maturity on the following diet, and are all in tip-top shape and look just like their wild cousins. I feed the young ones raw 93-lean hamburger, and I mix a bit of oyster shell calcium powder as well as one of the commercial reptile vitamins such as RepCal, and I go very lightly  on the mix, and Repto-Min, and when large enough they'll take Romaine lettuce, and cantaloupe, as well as bananas. A good staple food I use for them, and they grow and prosper on it is Purina Naturals cat food. I take a large bowl and pour the food in, and pour some Linatone over the pellets, shake until well-coated, and feed them on the plastic, and they will gather and feed promptly. My adults will graze on plants growing naturally in their enclosure, but crave dandelion greens, Bidens, and other plants that aren't too "spicy" or fuzzy for them. Also tomatoes are favored by them, as well as apples, and when feeding apples, it's best to simply place the apple on the ground and crush it underfoot! They can't bite into apple slices too well.

Wood turtles are mainly vegetarians as adults, and care for mine as such, but in the spring I will "beef them up" by several feedings of the hamburger until warm weather dominates, then once they eat regularly I decrease the meat after egg-laying and they get the Purina Natural cat food about twice a week, and a variety of veggies daily. I always try and keep some sort of fruit out there for them, but I never allow food to remain in there overnight to avoid predation. As for water I use a large shallow sturdy Rubbermaid-type container for them, and I never fill it more than five to six inches, since a male will crawl in there and drown another one if the water is much deeper than that. Also if you keep more than one or two males you're asking for trouble. They are "best buddies" on dry land, but once in water the males become very territorial, and fights will be common if you have one too many males. I have even seen females take a snap or two at each  other in the water. but I have never seen any injury from this.

Breeding

Breeding also takes place in the water, and for this I place a pair in water about a foot deep or less and watch them closely. The male will immediately mount the female and will court her for a length of time.  Every "courting" does not result in a mating. For best results I pick a cool day following hot weather, and mating is more likely. The activity must be supervised for signs of distress, because he will very easily drown your female, and I have lost a dozen or so females over the years from this, and now I won't let them out of my sight. The actual copulation lasts about an hour or so, and once they're firmly "connected" I lift the pair out of the deeper water and place them into a shallow container with water of the same temperature, and away from other turtles. I move them so the female can get some much-needed air during the ordeal. It does not bother them at all when a
 courting/copulating pair is moved from one container to another, and can be done so as needed.

Here in Florida the eggs are laid between late-March and late-April, and the Florida sun seems to be a bit strong for them, so I hatch them indoors in plastic containers. Nesting occurs around sundown usually, but sometimes in the mornings, or during a sudden storm during any daylight hour. They hide their nest quite well, and if I don't see them digging the hole, I may never find the eggs. Moles and shrews find them very quickly here, and the eggs are often eaten just as the female covers them.

When raising them indoors you are assured a perfectly healthy and flawless collection that may just outlive you, and outdoors you'll get some offspring, and again remember the risks. Also most "Woodies" will lay their eggs once a year, but it's not uncommon for some to produce a second set of eggs less than a month later. Also once they reach adult size brumation seems to be best for them - providing they have experienced the summer outside. If you're keeping them indoors and they have never seen the light of the sun, they can be kept going with no problem, but to brumate them it's best to leave them outdoors until the leaves drop, and pile the leaves up so they can burrow beneath them. Before really cold weather arrives bring them indoors and put them into a shallow container of water in a dark, cool basement, and they'll sleep the winter away! The best place is a basement that is allowed to remain unheated in the winter, and with temperatures in the upper-40's and 50’s. They will sleep comfortably until April. 

Here in Florida I never bring them in, and beneath their sheet of plastic they will spend their nights, and throughout the winter they emerge in the morning sun to bask awhile and to get a drink, and by choice some will enter the water container and will use it instead of the plastic cover, but a warm sunny day will always bring them forth. Keeping wood turtles pretty much depends upon their winter care, and "wintering" them successfully will assure decades of joy with these amazing creatures. They will dazzle you with their intelligence and will literally come running to you at feeding time. There are so many things I could share about these from the 30 years of experience I have had in keeping them as a part of my family. I will do a "Herping" article on the wood turtle in the near future to see their wild side, and if you do find these on a list I promise you won't be disappointed with these, as they add a bit of "personality" to the world of turtles.

4) West African Mud Turtle Care Sheet:

The West African mud turtle is a medium sized, aquatic turtle found throughout West Africa. Highly adaptable, they occur in many fresh water habitats such as mud holes, swamps, rivers and ponds. During droughts and when seasonal spaces dry up, the turtles will aestivate into the ground to wait out the wet season. They are usually found in large numbers basking along muddy banks and are ravenous feeders. 

Pelusios castaneus are a uniform brown color except for some captive born and raised specimens which may be very light colored, almost hypomelanistic in appearance. The carapace is a dark to light brown with no markings. The plastron is also brown with some lighter areas found usually in the middle. The skin is gray to brown with lighter areas underneath and on the soft parts. Strong, semi-webbed feet with sharp nails aid the turtle in climbing and ripping food items apart. The neck and large, flat head are withdrawn into the shell sideways eluding to this turtle's second name, "African side neck turtle."

On the top of the head is where the only pattern is found. Light to yellow reticulations which are more or less defined are found here. This trait separates them from the East African mud turtle (Pelusios subniger) which features an unmarked head and a "figure 8" shaped plastron. Both P. castaneus and P. subniger exhibit a hinged plastron. This differentiates them from a very similar species of turtle, the African helmeted turtle (Pelomedusa subrufa) which sports a fixed plastron.

West African mud turtles are quite common in nature and first appeared some 120 million years ago making them one of the most primitive turtle species on earth today. They have withstood the test of time making them expert survivalists in a harsh world.

Availability

Pelusios castaneus have remained easily obtainable and fairly inexpensive for the turtle keeper. They are exported in large numbers out of their native Africa and many enthusiasts are now having breeding success. In recent years, the African helmeted turtle appears to be the more commonly offered species to the general public. The West African mud turtle follows behind it with the East African mud turtle being virtually unknown in most collections.

Size

A medium sized species, the West African mud turtle grows to between 7 and 11 inches. Some individuals may make it up to 12 inches. 

Life Span

Like many of the world's chelonians, Pelusios castaneus has the potential to live a long life. Reports typically suggest more than 50 years in captivity for this species.

Caging

Outdoors, West African mud turtles can be housed in ponds and water gardens. This species does not hibernate so they should only be kept outside in the spring and summer if you reside in an area subjected to a cool season or winter. The pond should feature an abundance of aquatic plants like hyacinth, water lettuce, iris and lilies. The turtles will appreciate this vegetation as cover. Gradually sloped to a maximum depth of 12 inches, the pond should make up about 75% of the entire enclosure. The remaining 25% will be used for basking and potential egg laying, Shrubs and grasses can be planted in this portion to allow for extra cover.

The turtles may leave the water during extended heat waves and seek refuge under these plants. The entire enclosure should be at least 10X10 feet for up to eight adult turtles. A strong retaining wall of at least 18 inches is a must to prevent the inhabitants from climbing out. This can be constructed from pressure treated wood, cement blocking or landscaping timbers. The wall should also extend into the ground 6 inches or more in case of an escape via digging. Predator proofing through means of a screen lid made from 2X4's and reliable wire mesh may be necessary in your area.

Indoors, this species can be housed by using a variety of methods. Fairly easy to accommodate, Pelusios castaneus will do well in large all glass aquariums, stock tanks, troughs and custom built tubs. For up to four adults, a unit of at least 6X3.5 feet is suggested. The water should be no more than 6 to 8 inches and can be filled with live or fake aquatic plants. Driftwood, large cork bark slabs, rocks and half logs make for excellent basking sites and will be used readily by the turtles.

The more decor the better so that the turtles can "escape" one another especially when an overly enthusiastic male is in hot pursuit of the females. Always watch for aggressive group members and remove them to avoid injuries. Filtration is optional but if you opt against it like I do, be ready to do water changes every 2 to 3 days. The water will dirty quickly and start to smell. Even when using a filter, water changes are inevitable because these turtles can make quite a mess during feeding time. You can always feed the turtles in a separate "feeding tub" to help cut down on the frequency of water changes.

Lighting, Temperature and Humidity

When housed outside, the turtles need nothing more than the sun for appropriate lighting and temperature. Inside, artificial lighting is recommended. Mercury vapor bulbs of 100-150 watts have proven to be a good choice. They provide both UVA and UVB rays and give off excellent heat. Placed above the basking area, these bulbs will offer the turtles all they require to warm up and stay active in a room where the ambient temperature stays between the mid 70s and 80s. With the basking area reaching at least 95F and the appropriate ambient room temperature, it is not necessary to heat the water. If room temps do tend to fall beyond the low 60s, a submersible fish tank heater can be added to bring the water back to a more desirable degree. 

Substrate

For the sake of limiting the amount of work I have to put into cleaning any indoor aquatic turtle habitat, I choose to not use a substrate in the water section. It makes things much easier. However, larger sized pea gravel is a good choice if you would like to use something. Outdoors, the turtles will drag the substrate from the land/nesting into the water area which is fine. They will enjoy digging into it at the bottom especially on excessively hot days.

Food

Pelusios castaneus will accept a wide variety of food items. We have success offering our turtles pinkies, whole skinned mice, commercial turtle pellets, chicken, fish, shrimp, beef heart, ground turkey meat and the occasional fruit like strawberries. They will also take cat and dog foods (sparingly) along with koi pellets. If kept outdoors, the turtles will sometimes catch some of their own food in the form of worms, insects, frogs and tadpoles. Even wild birds that land inside the enclosure are at risk of becoming a potential meal. Baby Pelusios can be offered any of the above items but in smaller pieces. 

Water

This species is capable of surviving in stagnant ponds and rather dirty water conditions. This is of course something that should not be purposely practiced in captivity. Keep any water source as clean as possible by overflowing outdoor ponds weekly and by doing frequent water changes for indoor units. 

Handling and Temperament

While no turtle likes to be picked and held, the West African mud turtle has a rather calm disposition. They rarely bite and usually withdraw into their shells if they are being handled. Some will attempt to free themselves so watch out for those sharp nails. We only handle our turtles during water changes and for health inspections to help minimize any stress. 

This species has a voracious appetite and they quickly learn to recognize their keeper as a food source. They will swim and walk over to you in hopes of receiving a bite to eat. Aggression can occur during feeding time so always be on the look out for a problem. They are an inquisitive species and certainly do not just vanish under the mud except for during extreme weather conditions. Their basking capabilities adds to the character they already show and they can be a lot of fun to watch as they pile on top of one another for the best spot. 

Reproduction and Breeding

The breeding success of Pelusios castaneus in captivity seems to be centered in the collections of zoos and institutions but private keepers are having some luck as well. Clutches can be as large as 11 to 18 eggs by a single female. The chalky eggs are laid in a sandy-soil substrate and the female digs a deep hole which she lowers herself down into a significant amount. Once the female has finished nesting, the eggs can be dug up and placed in an artificial incubator. In the incubator, the eggs are kept on moist vermiculite in deli cups with air holes punched into them. They require a higher humidity level of between 90-95%.

At a temperature of 85-87F, the fertile eggs will hatch at around 53-59 days, sometimes more than 60. The little neonates can be placed in a similar indoor setting as the adults but the water should not be as deep. A depth of 2-4" is fine and the babies will use the aquatic plants as refuge and security. After about 4 to 7 days, they usually start accepting their first meals. They should not be placed outdoors until they are of a more substantial size like 3 to 4". I highly suggest that hatchlings be kept separate from the always hungry adults to avoid severe bites and to protect them from being consumed altogether.  

5) Greek Tortoise Care Sheet:

Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca)

Found in North Africa, southwest Asia and southern Europe, the Greek tortoise inhabits a variety of habitats, including some that are particularly arid: rocky hillsides, Mediterranean scrub, forests, fields and meadows are all occupied by the Greek tortoise subspecies. A highly domed carapace joins the singly hinged plastron by a thick bridge. The coloration ranges from yellow-gold to dark brown or black. Flecks, borders, rays and spots on the shell produce a pattern reminiscent of a Greek mosaic, hence the common name. One to three raised scales, spurs or tubercles are located on either side of the tail, on each thigh (these spurs are the reason for the alternate name, the Mediterranean spur-thigh tortoise). The head is blunt with large eyes and the front legs exhibit large scales and thick, powerful claws. The supracaudal shield just above the tail is undivided.
Several subspecies of the Greek tortoise are recognized, which has enabled a high amount of confusion in regard to proper identification of captive specimens. Familiar forms of the Greek tortoise are:

Ibera Greek tortoise (Testudo graeca ibera)
Libyan Greek tortoise (T. g. cyrenaica)
North African Greek tortoise (T. g. graeca)
“Golden” Greek tortoise (T. graeca ssp.)
Tunisian Greek tortoise (T. g. nabulensis)

Over the last few decades, many Greek tortoises, particularly Ibera and goldens, were imported into the United States for the pet trade. Many of these animals harbored parasites and diseases and, sadly, many did not survive. Those that received medical attention and appropriate care, however, are now thriving in captivity. This founder stock has produced a high number of captive-bred babies, some now grown up and producing offspring of their own, and these USA-born tortoises have proven to be an excellent choice for the reptile keeper. A rather responsive species, the Greek tortoise has gotten rave reviews from those who have attempted to keep it long term, the right way.

Greek Tortoise Availability

Depending on the subspecies, Greek tortoises are readily available. Forms such as the Ibera Greek and now the golden Greek have produced well under captive conditions and healthy hatchlings can be found at reptile expos, pet stores, online dealers and private breeders. Throughout the year, one can usually locate babies available for sale with ease.
Keepers are strongly advised to refrain from buying freshly imported Testudo graeca from the wild; these specimens are brought over in droves and are typically offered for sale in spring and late summer. Only the very experienced tortoise keeper should attempt to take on such a challenge. As always, buy captive bred over wild caught.

Greek Tortoise Size

Depending on the subspecies, Greek tortoises will grow to between 5 and 8 inches. Some examples of T. g. ibera may attain 10 or 11 inches, but this is rare. Male Greek tortoises are usually smaller than females, but again, there are exceptions.
At hatching, most Greek tortoises are no more than an inch in length. They can grow rapidly when overfed and reports of them reaching 4 inches in less than two years is common, but not recommended.

Greek Tortoise Life Span

Testudo graeca subspecies are known to be some of the longest lived of the tortoises. Reports suggest well into the 100s. In the wild, many do not live past the age of 20 due to predation and other factors. When kept safe and under optimum conditions, Greek tortoises thrive and can live to a ripe old age. Some have outlived their keepers.

Greek Tortoise Housing

Housing Greek tortoises outdoors in a naturalistic pen is always best. During the warmer part of the year, they can be kept in spacious enclosures that are well planted with edible vegetation and receive plenty of time in natural, full sun.
Indoors, the construction of a “tortoise table” will suit the needs of Greek tortoises well. A 3-by-6-foot unit made of ply wood will suffice for a single adult and up to a pair of adults. Wood is always recommended over plastic or glass so that the tortoises cannot see through their enclosure’s walls. This way they will learn their boundaries and it will lessen their attempts to escape.

If you have the space, always make the tortoise pen as large as you can. This allows for a more natural behavior cycle and reduces stress, especially from territorial or aggressive specimens. Housing males together may pose a problem with them fighting relentlessly, especially when females are present. It’s important to give the tortoises as much space as possible because they could be spending months on end indoors, until the weather outside is once again appropriate for keeping the tortoises outdoors.

Lighting, Temperature and Humidity

As always, natural sunlight should be utilized whenever possible and the tortoises fully benefit in many ways from being exposed to it. When housing them inside, proper lighting is essential for keeping them healthy. Many options are available, such as daylight spot bulbs, infrared heat bulbs and fluorescent tube lighting.
Mercury vapor bulbs, which provide both UVA and UVB, are a personal favorite of mine. A 100- to 150-watt mercury vapor bulb installed above one end of the indoor tortoise enclosure creates a perfect basking area. It also lights up the enclosure nicely.
The opposite end should remain cool.
You can also use a regular incandescent spot light for the basking area, so long as it reaches a temperature of 95 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. In this case, a fluorescent UVB-emitting bulb will need to be installed as well. The ambient room temperature where your indoor tortoise enclosure is located should remain between 75 and 85 degrees.
When raising hatchlings, a humidity level of between 65 and 70 percent is appropriate. This can be achieved by spraying down the enclosure every other day with warm water. A water dish in combination with a substrate that retains humidity (see following substrate section) will do the trick, as well. By keeping baby Greek tortoises well hydrated and at a sufficient humidity level, they will grow smoothly and retain a good weight.

Greek Tortoise Substrate

The three best substrates for housing Greek tortoises indoors are cypress mulch, aspen shavings, or a 50/50 mix of top soil and play sand. When using aspen it is very important to make sure the tortoises stay hydrated because it tends to be very dry. Rabbit pellets are OK, but they do not retain humidity well and mold will grow quickly in soiled areas. Cedar and pine beddings absolutely must be avoided, as they are toxic to tortoises.

Greek Tortoise Food

Greek tortoises spend much of their time gazing on edible landscape. For this reason, it is an excellent and healthy idea to offer weeds such as dandelion, clover, plantain, hawksbit, cat’s ear, wild strawberry and thistle. When these items are not available (often during the winter months), they can be replaced by dried, bagged organic herbs. These can be found online.
Store-bought greens such as collard, mustard, kale and turnip can be offered sparingly. Commercial diets such as Mazuri Tortoise Diet are excellent for helping Greek tortoises to maintain good weight, but again, should be offered only in moderation. Calcium supplements in the form of cuttlebone are wonderful additions to their diet; the tortoises will gladly nibble on them.

Greek Tortoise Water

Many Greek tortoises originate from extremely arid habitats while others are found in more temperate locations. Regardless of their origin, all Greek tortoises need to stay hydrated. A shallow water dish should be available at all times for drinking and soaking, and it should be cleaned/changed frequently. Tortoises defecate in their water, so keeping the supply clean is a must. Greek tortoises also appreciate an occasional misting of their environment, which prompts them to empty their bowels and drink.

Greek Tortoise Handling and Temperament

Similar to most turtles and tortoises, Greek tortoises do not like to be held. They should be picked up only when absolutely necessary, such as prior to being soaked, cleaning of the enclosure and health checks. While they tend to become very responsive to their keepers and will approach for food, they should not be over-handled by any means.
Greek tortoises are easy-going, friendly and interactive, but like all reptiles, they should never be overly stressed.

Greek Tortoise Breeding

Male Greek tortoises will exhibit the classic behavior of “shell ramming,” in that they use their carapaces to slam into the females in order to coax them into breeding. Once the female submits to the male’s advances (he will also viciously bite at her legs and face) he will mount her from behind and begin copulation. A series of high-pitched squeaks will emanate from the male’s mouth as he sticks out his tongue during copulation.

This act of courtship generally takes place in April and May, with egg-laying commencing in June. The female digs a 4- to 7-inch long, flask-shaped nesting chamber with her hind legs before depositing three to six eggs (sometimes more, depending on the subspecies). She then covers the nest and leaves the eggs to hatch on their own.
I prefer to dig up the eggs to incubate them artificially. They are placed in closed deli cup containers on slightly moistened vermiculite and incubated at 84 to 88 degrees. Higher temperatures will result in females; the lower, males.

After 55 to 70 days, the baby tortoises will hatch. I leave them inside the egg containers inside the incubator until their yolk sacs have been absorbed. Then they are placed in rearing enclosures for the first few years of life, before being moved to the larger enclosures where the adults are kept.

6) Common Musk Turtle Care Sheet:

Common Musk Turtle (Sternotherus odoratus)

The common musk turtle is a member of the family Kinosternidae. It has a blackish-brown carapace that is highly domed with a vertebral keel. The keel tends to flatten out in adults, but is very prominent in hatchlings and juveniles. The plastron is reduced in size. The head of the common musk turtle typically has two distinct parallel yellow stripes that extend from the nose to the neck, though these may fade in older animals.

The common musk turtle has a wide geographic range in eastern North America, from Florida to Ontario, and west to Texas and Wisconsin. Common musk turtles are found in both slow-flowing sections of stream and river habitats, as well as lakes and ponds. Also called the “stinkpot,” a common musk turtle may emit a foul smell from glands on the corners of the plastron that exude an orange-ish liquid. This usually occurs when a turtle is frightened or startled, and often declines in pets that receive frequent handling.

Common Musk Turtle Availability

Common musk turtles are often available. It is recommended that you obtain captive-bred common musk turtles from a reputable reptile dealer, as wild turtles should not be removed from their native populations.

Common Musk Turtle Size

Common musk turtles are small turtles with a maximum carapace length of 4 to 4.5 inches. Males are slightly larger than females. Common musk turtle hatchlings are the smallest North American turtle, being only slightly larger than a penny.

Common Musk Turtle Life Span

Although it is not known for certain, common musk turtles are suspected to live 30 to 50 years in the wild. Males are presumed to become sexually mature by 4 years of age, whereas females may take up to 10 years to reach sexual maturity.

Common Musk Turtle Caging

A 20-gallon aquarium with a submersible canister water filter—such as a Fluval 2Plus filter—can house one adult common musk turtle. A 40-gallon tank can house a pair (and a Fluval 3Plus underwater filter would be able to handle the filtration). Housing two male common musk turtles in the same tank is not recommended. Keeping one male and one female in a tank may require that the two be separated if the male shows excessive interest in the female and begins to relentlessly harass her.

Use non-chlorinated water in the enclosure; a depth that would allow the turtle’s hind legs to touch the bottom while still allowing it to stretch slightly (without having to paddle water constantly) to breathe at the surface is recommended. Though common musk turtles may not choose to leave the water, a floating dock or other haul-out area should be provided should they want to bask.

Common Musk Turtle Lighting and Temperature

As mentioned, common musk turtles do not always emerge from the water to bask, but a basking light is still essential for captive turtle health; position it above the spot the turtle would bask should it choose to do so. The temperature in this hot spot should be about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. A ceramic heat emitter in a metal dome clamp light can be used to raise the ambient air temperature in the enclosure to the mid-80s.

High-quality UVB bulbs (available in stores that sell reptile supplies) are required to help turtles metabolize calcium and avoid vitamin A and D3 deficiencies. Keep lighting on a 12-hours-on/12-hours-off cycle to mimic natural conditions. A submersible heater should be used to maintain water temperature at 72 to 78 degrees.

Common Musk Turtle Substrate

Substrate is not required when keeping common musk turtles, and a bare-bottomed tank is also easier to clean. Hobbyists who want a more attractive, naturalistic turtle enclosure can use medium-sized gravel.

Common Musk Turtles Food

Wild common musk turtles eat a variety of small snails, mollusks, crayfish and aquatic insects such as dragonfly and damselfly nymphs. They will also actively pursue small tadpoles and terrestrial insects that fall into the water. They will occasionally consume plant matter such as Elodea species or duckweed. Pet common musk turtles will eat earthworms, cut-up fish and shrimp, crickets and bloodworms.  Most pets will eat pelleted turtle foods, as well, including Reptomin and Mazuri Freshwater Turtle Diet.

Common Musk Turtle Handling and Temperament

Common musk turtles may occasionally attempt to bite, so care should be taken in handling them. Keep your fingers toward the rear of the carapace to minimize the likelihood of a nip, but common musk turtles have long, flexible necks, so be careful. And remember the previously mentioned reason why this turtle is also called the stinkpot.

7) Painted Turtle Care Sheet:

Painted Turtle (Chrysemys picta ssp. and C. dorsalis)

Well deserving of their common name, painted turtles are one of the most attractive varieties of pond turtle native to North America. Their range extends from the Pacific coast to the Atlantic coast and from Canada to northern Mexico, making them one of the most widespread species, as well. Inhabiting practically any slow-moving or still body of freshwater within their range makes painted turtles one of the most commonly encountered turtles, and their vivid coloration makes them one of the most recognizable.

There are four types of painted turtles: the eastern painted turtle (Chrysemys picta picta), the midland painted turtle (C. p. marginata), the western painted turtle (C. p. bellii) and the southern painted turtle (C. dorsalis). Although their native ranges vary (hence, their common names), their habits and captive care requirements are very similar.

Painted Turtle Availability

Painted turtles breed readily in captivity, and are frequently produced by hobbyists and turtle farms alike. As with most temperate species, their breeding season is restricted to spring and summer, so captive-bred babies are most commonly available from May through September. However, given the significant numbers of babies hatched yearly, they are typically available for most of the year and prices are very affordable.

Painted Turtle Size

Besides their attractive coloration, another appealing aspect of painted turtles is their manageable adult size. Large western painted turtles rarely exceed 8 inches in length, and southern painted turtles are not normally larger than 6 inches. Eastern and midland painted turtles are in between, maxing out at around 7 inches. Males do not usually get quite as big as females, but their size difference is not significant.

Painted Turtle Life Span

Painted turtles have been known to live as long as 50 years in captivity, so they can truly be (nearly) lifelong companions. Given proper diet, housing, and care, you can reasonably expect a painted turtle to live for 25 to 30 years.

Painted Turtle Housing

Housing for painted turtles can be as elaborate or as simple as you choose to make it, but there are some minimal housing requirements that must be addressed. While it would be difficult for most keepers to provide water that is too deep, the depth should never be less than about twice the width of the turtle’s shell. A basking area, upon which the painted turtle can leave the water completely, complete with a good basking light to help it thermoregulate, is an absolute must.

An underwater hiding place should be provided, as well, with care taken to ensure that the painted turtle cannot get trapped and drown. Non-toxic live or plastic plants can be provided for hiding and to forage among, although painted turtles will eventually shred any live plants whether they eat them or not. Although the painted turtle tank bottom can be left bare, substrate (sand, gravel, etc.) can be used for a more natural appearance, but choose a particle size that is either too large to be swallowed or so small that it will pass easily through your painted turtle’s digestive tract.

Because they are active and able swimmers, painted turtles should be provided with a tank as spacious as possible. At a minimum, a single baby or juvenile painted turtle should be provided about 10 gallons of water volume. This does not mean a 10-gallon tank, but at least a 15- or 20-gallon tank partially filled with 10 gallons of water. Increase the volume of water by 5 gallons for each additional baby turtle. As the turtle(s) reach adulthood and beyond they should be provided with a minimum of 20 gallons of water volume for the first turtle, with an additional 10 gallons of water volume for each additional turtle.

Painted turtles are adaptable and can be housed in virtually any suitably sized tank. Stock tanks, glass aquariums, plastic totes and garden ponds can all be appropriate housing for individuals or groups of painted turtles. They can be maintained indoors or out, and adequate protection from predators as well as escape prevention measures should be provided in either case.

Painted Turtle Lighting and Temperature

If there is a good dietary source of vitamin D to metabolize calcium, a UVA/UVB light may not be necessary, but many keepers choose to provide such lighting anyway. A good heat-emitting light should always be provided over the basking area, and either incandescent or fluorescent lighting can provide additional illumination if necessary. For turtles maintained outdoors, the sun will of course provide heat and UV rays and no further lighting is necessary.

Temperature gradients should be provided for the water, ambient air and basking area. Water should be maintained within the range of 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit; ambient air between 80 and 85 degrees, and the basking area should be kept between 85 and 95 degrees. Bear in mind that temperatures within an aquarium–especially if there is a hood or cover installed–will probably be different than the temperatures within the surrounding room, so it is important to periodically check the actual temperatures in the tank rather than relying on a general indoor thermometer/thermostat. Of course, keeping thermometers inside the painted turtle enclosure will help, too.

Painted Turtle Food

Painted turtles are omnivorous, and will accept both animal and plant matter with equal enthusiasm. Along with fish, worms and insects, offer them green, leafy vegetables and aquatic plants such as water lettuce, water hyacinth and duckweed. In addition to live and natural foods, there is a wide variety of commercial turtle food available on the market, and most have been formulated to provide optimum nutrition for turtles at all stages of growth. Pay attention to ingredient labels; I recommend diets with the following: 30- to 40-percent protein; low fat content; vitamin D and a high calcium-to-phosphorous ratio. I also recommend vitamin and mineral supplementation.

Painted Turtle Health

Provided with suitable housing and diet, painted turtles are active and energetic pets. But as with any animal, illness and disease can affect them. Some indicators of health problems include: swollen or sunken eyes; listing or inability to submerge; gaping or frothing at the mouth, or bubbles in the nose; excessive basking or refusal to enter the water; inability or refusal to feed; asymmetrical or irregular growth; obvious discoloration or open wounds on the skin or shell; or any other abnormal appearance or behavior. If your painted turtle exhibits any of these problems, veterinary attention is recommended. Be sure to use a vet that specializes in turtles and tortoises, or at least reptiles and exotic animals. A list of reptile vets can be found here.

Painted Turtle Temperament and Handling

Although not truly social animals, painted turtles are gregarious and capable of cohabitating with turtles of their own and other species with similar housing needs. Both sexes are capable of dominant or territorial aggression, but as long as adequate space and hiding areas are provided, this behavior is usually not severe enough to result in serious injury. Still, if consistent aggression is noted, it may be necessary to provide a larger habitat or even entirely isolate offending turtles.

Painted turtles are not domesticated animals that thrive on human affection and contact, so they should not be handled except as a matter of necessity. Despite appearances to the contrary, handling is stressful to the painted turtle and subjects the handler to biting and scratching by the turtle. Occasional handling to inspect a painted turtle for health or injuries, and occasionally relocating painted turtles to alternate containers during cleaning and maintenance of their primary habitat, is acceptable. As always, a thorough hand-washing with soap and warm water before and after a turtle or any related materials or equipment has been handled will help to avoid any disease transmission between human and turtle.

8) Spotted Pond Turtle Care Sheet:

Spotted Pond Turtle (Geoclemys hamiltonii)

Baby and juvenile spotted pond turtles are truly one of the world’s most beautiful turtles. Though difficult to obtain – they are protected as both a CITES Appendix I and Endangered Species – they are nonetheless being captive bred in large numbers, mostly in California and Florida. Well-acclimated adults in proper enclosures are proving to be very prolific, and the captive-hatched babies have proven to be hardy captives.

Spotted pond turtles are found in large, deep rivers in northern India, Assam, southern Pakistan and Bangladesh. They are active baskers and can be seen catching rays on partially submerged logs, rocks, and even the edges of riverbanks. In nature they feed on fish, invertebrates and floating aquatic plants.

Spotted Pond Turtle Availability

The spotted pond turtle received protection from CITES and the Endangered Species Act (ESA) in 1976, and importation was banned. Luckily, a few were in private hands in the United States and in Europe, and under watchful eyes these turtles have thrived. One population in Florida has produced several hundred babies over the last 10 years.

Sadly, even captive-hatched babies cannot be shipped out of the state where they were produced (as a commercial transaction) without a Captive Born Wildlife Permit. This permit is fairly easy to obtain, but both parties in the transaction – both buyer and seller – must have one or the turtles cannot be shipped across state lines. Babies and adults can be transported across state lines if the transaction is not commercial, such as a gift or breeding loan, but this transaction will be scrutinized heavily by U.S. Fish and Wildlife, and any attempt to skirt the law is usually dealt with harshly.

Spotted Pond Turtle Adult Size

Adult female spotted pond turtles average 11 to 12 inches in total length; males are smaller, usually 7 to 8 inches. As with most turtles, males have longer, thicker tails than females. The males do not have concave plastrons, as are seen in some other species of turtles.

Spotted Pond Turtle Life Span

Spotted pond turtles can live 15 to 20 years or more if cared for properly.

Spotted Pond Turtle Captive Care

Spotted pond turtles do very well in outdoor ponds in warmer climates. They do not cool down much in their natural habitats, and in all but the coldest environments they are alert and active year-round. They are sun worshippers, so provide plenty of branches and rock piles for them to climb out and bask.   

Indoors, a basic setup with a deep water section and basking area in a large tub or stock tank (at least 6 feet long by 3 feet wide by 3 feet deep or more) will be sufficient to hold a pair of adult turtles.  Remember that a spotted pond turtle reaches an adult size comparable to a football. An efficient filtration system is highly recommended.

Spotted Pond Turtle Lighting and Temperature

Place a shop light fixture with UVB-emitting bulbs over the spotted pond turtle enclosure, and mount a 100-watt spotlight to create a basking spot of 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Air temperature in the enclosure should be between 75 and 80 degrees. Use a 250-watt submersible heater to maintain the water temperature at 78 to 80 degrees. Depending on the indoor air temperatures, an additional heat light may be required at night or during the day so the turtles can thermoregulate to raise their body temperature to optimal levels for digestion.

Exposure to natural sunlight or UVB light allows turtles to produce vitamin D3, which is critical in allowing a turtle’s body to absorb and use available calcium. Fluorescent bulbs made especially for use with reptiles can provide UVB, as can mercury vapor bulbs, which also provide some heat. If fluorescent tubes are used for UVB, a separate light may be required for heat.

Spotted pond turtles can handle a wide range of temperatures if kept outdoors, but once temperatures drop into the 50s at night, or if daily high temperatures fail to exceed 60 degrees, move the turtles indoors or provide supplemental heat. Be careful when placing turtles outside. Glass enclosures such as aquariums heat up quickly in the sun, killing pet turtles in a matter of minutes. Also, predators such as birds, cats, dogs, and even ants can attack and kill your spotted pond turtle.

Spotted Pond Turtle Food

Spotted pond turtles are carnivorous, eagerly consuming fish, worms, crickets and floating turtle food. I offer mine a combination of two or three commercial turtle foods three times a week. I also offer fish, worms and even thawed pink mice once or twice a week to add some variety. Respect your turtles’ need for a balanced and varied diet, and they will grow into beautiful, healthy adults.

Spotted Pond Turtle Health

Spotted pond turtles are only available as captive-hatched babies, so their health issues are few. These are hardy, alert and energetic turtles. They seem to thrive in a variety of water conditions. Their need for warm water and an intense basking area is important, and of course a healthy diet will help keep health issues to a minimum. Poor water quality and improper temperatures will result in turtles with eye problems and respiratory issues that will lead to expensive veterinary visits and, potentially, the death of the turtle.

Spotted Pond Turtle Breeding

Captive breeding of G. hamiltonii is simple and straightforward. Adults breed throughout the spring and a female will typically lay two clutches of six to 10 eggs each year. The eggs should be incubated in an incubator at 82 to 84 degrees. Hatchlings appear after 60 to 65 days.

Hatchlings thrive in a warm environment with clean, filtered water. They can be kept in a 20-gallon long aquarium or similarly sized enclosure (20 inches long by 12 inches wide by 12 inches tall), with an external filter, basking spot, heat and UVB-emitting lamps overhead, and a few live aquatic plants, both floating and submerged. They will feed on a wide variety of insects, insect larvae and small fish, in addition to two or three turtle food pellets each day. I suggest a mix of pellets that contain fish, krill and Spirulina algae.

Spotted Pond Turtle Handling and Temperament

Although over time spotted pond turtles learn to recognize their keepers and may come to them for food, most aquatic turtles are not good pets for young children and should be handled infrequently. Young turtles are shy and will spend a great deal of time hiding in aquatic plants and beneath submerged rock caves and logs. Aquatic turtles can also be quite expensive to set up and maintain, as they need large enclosures, filtration equipment, water conditioners, and they require frequent water changes and monitoring of their captive conditions.

When established properly, a creative enclosure of spotted pond turtles can be a beautiful and exciting addition to a home environment. Imagine one of the most beautiful turtles in the world in your home, in a shining aquarium with clean fresh water and lush aquatic plants, and having it thrive under your attentive care!

9) Red-Eared Slider Care Sheet:

Red-Eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans)

The red-eared slider has a long history in the pet trade, and it has been kept for many years by a wide variety of hobbyists, both beginners and veterans. For years they were sold in dime stores, and unfortunately many died due to a lack of knowledge of the children who begged their parents to buy them for them. Luckily, now that reptile enthusiasts are better educated, the red-eared slider has a better chance of survival in captivity, but it is a large turtle and should be kept only by people who are prepared to provide the proper care for it.

Red-eared sliders are strong swimmers and will spend a majority of their time in the water. They bask a lot, too, and during warm, sunny days, wild red-ears love to stack on top of each other while doing so. The slightest movement or sound will send them sliding off their rocks or logs and back into the water—this, coupled with the red ear mark on both sides of their heads, gives them their common name. Pet red-eared sliders can be very personable and will often swim up to you, begging for food.

The native habitat of the red-eared slider is from New Mexico north to Ohio, Illinois, Indiana and West Virginia, then south through Kentucky, Tennessee and Georgia, all the way to northern Mexico. They are often found in slow-moving streams, creeks, lakes, ponds and marshes with a fresh and warm water supply.

Red-Eared Slider Availability

The red-eared slider is one of the most common turtles found for sale in pet stores across the U.S. and overseas. In addition to finding them at local pet stores, you can purchase them at reptile shows or online. It is illegal for hatchlings with a carapace length of less than 4 inches to be sold for anything other than educational purposes.

Red-Eared Slider Size

Full grown adults can reach 12 inches in length, with females usually being the largest in size. There are rare instances of adult red-eared sliders growing larger than 12 inches.

Red-Eared Slider Life Span

Red-eared sliders can live a long life in captivity. When cared for correctly, they can easily live longer than 20 years.

Red-Eared Slider Diet

Red-eared sliders are omnivores. In the wild, they feed on aquatic vegetation, small fish and decaying material such as dead fish and frogs, etc. Pet red-eared sliders will feed on just about anything you give them, but I recommend feeding them a commercial turtle food or pellet to benefit proper growth and health. On occasion, you can offer them leafy greens, freeze-dried shrimp or krill, crickets, superworms, rosy red minnows and even pinky mice.

Red-Eared Slider Housing

Hatchling red-eared sliders are very cute, but don’t let their small size fool you. Remember, adults can grow to 12 inches. The general rule of thumb for housing red-eared sliders is for every inch of shell length, you should provide 10 gallons of water. For example, a red-eared slider with a 5-inch shell length should be provided an enclosure containing 50 gallons of water to allow for adequate swimming space.
They can be kept in aquariums, turtle tubs, etc.

Primary accessories to properly house a red-eared slider are a water filtration system, a water heater, a basking dock and a basking lamp. Because red-eared sliders are messy feeders and produce a lot of waste, I recommend purchasing a water filter that is rated at least double the amount of water in your turtle’s enclosure. This reduces the frequency of water changes that will be necessary (though don’t neglect water changes; you should still perform them regularly) and maintains the cleanliness and health of your turtles.

Use a submersible water heater to maintain the ideal water temperature between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Turtles can be rough, so use a water heater guard to protect the heater from breaking; they are available in pet stores or online. Be sure to maintain the recommended temperatures, both in the water and the ambient temperatures mentioned below. If the temperatures are too cold, your turtle’s metabolism will reduce, which can be a threat to its health. Keep tanks and tubs away from areas with cool breezes or drafts, too, as constant fluctuation of temperatures due to these can cause respiratory infections.

To ensure proper health and growth of red-eared sliders, a basking light that provides UVB and UVA rays, to mimic the sun, is required. Purchase either a commercial turtle basking dock or create your own basking platform onto which your turtle can emerge from the water to soak up the artificial sunlight and dry off. Temperatures in the basking area should remain between 85 and 90 degrees.

Red-Eared Slider Handling and Temperament

Captive-born-and-raised red-eared sliders are more personable compared to wild red-eared sliders, which tend to be more cautious and frightened when approached by humans. At the slightest sound or movement, they will quickly slide into the water for cover. Captive-bred red-eared sliders are the opposite; they will frequently swim up to you and beg for food.

Although every turtle is different, when handled, red-eared sliders could withdraw into their shells or possibly even nip at your fingers if they feel threatened. This is why it’s not recommended that you frequently handle your red-eared sliders or remove them from their habitats.

10) Ornate Box Turtle Care Sheet:

Ornate Box Turtle (Terrapene ornata ornate)

Ornate box turtles have one of the largest natural ranges of any box turtle species – occupying nearly all of the American Midwest. Ornate box turtles are easily identified by their dark brown carapace with bright yellow markings radiating from the upper posterior section of each costal shield. The bodies of ornate box turtles are mottled brown and yellow/cream with yellow, orange and/or red markings on the face and forelegs. Like all other species of American box turtle, ornate box turtles possess a hinged plastron. Male ornate box turtles usually have a slightly concave plastron and possess red irises, and female ornate box turtles have a flat plastron with brown or yellow irises. Males also have longer, thicker tails.

Ornate Box Turtle Availability

Ornate box turtles are a pet store favorite in the United States and are some of the most popular box turtle species offered for sale in the pet industry today. Ornate box turtles come from a variety of sources, including wild caught, farm raised, and some captive bred. Additionally, given the large number of ornate box turtles sold annually, they are a common resident in reptile rescues. If you obtain a wild-caught or farm-raised ornate box turtle, be sure to completely inspect the turtle. Wild-caught turtles typically harbor internal parasites and should be treated by your veterinarian.

 Ornate Box Turtle Size

Adult ornate box turtles are typically between 5 to 7 inches in length, with most ornate box turtles topping out around 6 inches.

Ornate Box Turtle Lifespan

Box turtles, in general, have been recorded to live as long as 100 years, with most living between 40 and 60 years. The records for ornate box turtle longevity indicate animals living as long as 32 to 37 years. However, the longevity for box turtles is largely dependent on their diet, habitat, the cleanliness of their enclosure and stress. Optimizing the conditions for your ornate box turtle will lead to a long and healthy life.

Ornate Box Turtle Caging

Hatchling ornate box turtles can be kept in plastic shoebox-sized enclosures with a large, extremely shallow food and water dish (large enough to soak in, shallow so they don’t drown). Adult ornate box turtles may be kept in small groups in 30- or 40-gallon breeder tanks or commercially available turtle/tortoise tubs, or they may be kept outdoors in turtle pens at least 4 foot by 4 foot in size with 12- to 18-inch vertical barriers. It is vital that water dishes be kept very clean and changed regularly to avoid bacterial infections.

Ornate box turtles should be kept on a sandy soil substrate deep enough to burrow in, generally no less than 4 inches deep, or at least 12 inches deep in outdoor pens. This can be covered lightly with twice-milled cypress mulch for aesthetics. For ornate box turtles kept indoors, it is usually wise to provide a mound of moistened sphagnum moss to burrow in on the cool side of the enclosure. Hatchling ornate box turtles should be kept in slightly more humid conditions than adults. An average humidity level of between 40 to 50 percent is the nominal humidity level I’ve kept adult ornate box turtles at. To prevent dehydration in hatchlings, I often keep them between 60 to 70 percent humidity.

Ornate Box Turtle Lighting and Temperature

Ornate box turtles of all ages should have access to UVB fluorescent lighting, in addition to a spot lamp to provide a hotspot. If kept outside in a turtle pen, the access to regular natural sunlight negates the requirement for either of the above lighting elements. For indoor caging, both cool and warm ends should be provided with the ambient temperature being about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. A 75-watt spot lamp should be used to provide a basking site between 90 and 95 degrees, and the cool end should be kept between 70 and 75 degrees. Under no circumstances should a heat rock be used to provide the heat for a box turtle, as this will almost always lead to potentially life-threatening burns!

 Ornate Box Turtle Food

Like all American box turtles, the ornate box turtle is omnivorous. In the wild ornate box turtles actively hunt and consume grasshoppers, crickets, beetles and earthworms. Additionally, ornate box turtles will graze on low-growing vegetation, berries and even mushrooms. In captivity it is important to provide a varied assortment of foods, as the diversity of the ornate box turtle diet can lead to them being picky eaters. Commercially bred cockroaches in addition to crickets, mealworms, earthworms, hard-boiled eggs, ground beef and even canned cat/dog food (which should be your last choice due to the high fat and processed meat content) make for excellent sources of protein. Berries, sliced melon, mushrooms, mustard greens, collard greens and dandelion greens round out the vegetarian side of the menu. It is important to your ornate box turtle’s health to provide a rich calcium source for your turtles as well as a source rich in beta carotene or vitamin A. Therefore, insects should be dusted with a high quality vitamin and mineral supplement prior to being offered.

Ornate Box Turtle Handling and Temperament

Ornate box turtles bred in captivity are more tolerant of handling than wild-caught or farm-raised turtles, but overall, ornate box turtles are not difficult turtles to handle. Also, turtles unaccustomed to captivity can be easily stressed and should be given a couple of weeks to settle in to their new situation prior to any regular handling. Caution should always be exercised with ornate box turtles as they are slightly more aggressive than other box turtle species and will not hesitate to bite in defense of a perceived attacker.

Ornate box turtles are very active, alert, and full of personality that other turtle species can sometimes lack. If set down on the ground, ornate box turtles will almost immediately explore their surroundings with a speed and boldness that captures the hearts of their keepers. This is not your “sit-and-watch-the-world-go-by” turtle. The ornate box turtle embodies every bit of the spirit and character that is associated with the Midwestern United States.

11) Pink-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle Care Sheet:

The pink-bellied side-necked turtle (Emydura subglobosa) is a recent introduction to the North American turtle keeping hobby. Its shell ranges in color from beige to chestnut brown or slate gray. The plastron can be white, pink or, in the case of especially prized specimens, bright red/orange. The skin is typically various shades of gray, with some red markings. As pink-bellied side-necks grow, their skin develops additional random red/orange markings.

Hatchlings are born with an attractive white, yellow or orange ring at the outer edge of their  marginal scutes (the outer shell, looking down from above). Their heads are gray to olive green with two bold yellow stripes on either side. The curved lower jaw gives this turtle a permanent smile. 

Sex is easily determined. Males have longer, larger and thicker tails, and females have shorter, smaller and more narrow tails. These differences begin to show themselves when the turtles are about 3 1/2 inches in shell length, and are unmistakable when a turtle's shell reaches 5 1/2 inches.     

Pink-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle Availability

Once the rarest of turtles in the United States, pink-bellied side-necks are now being bred successfully by several U.S. breeders to the point where the growing demand by U.S. keepers is met every year. The turtle is legal to keep in all U.S. states. It is one of the few that Oregon allows, and Hawaii allows them, too, but to keep them there requires special permit.

The success of American breeders with this species has enabled the turtle's price to drop dramatically in recent years. Well-started hatchlings usually start at about $79. If you want larger turtles to match others in your collection, or to keep in a large tank or pond, hand-raised yearlings or pink-bellies that are 2 to 3 years old may be priced in the $89 to $129 range.

Pink-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle Size

An outstanding aquarium or pond turtle, hatchling pink-bellied side-necks emerge from their eggs at 1.25 inches and quickly grow another half an inch during their first few months. Then they grow a little over an inch a year if fed the same amounts as they would eat in nature. Keepers tend to feed more, however, so faster growth is often the case. After about 10 years, adults may grow up to 10 inches. Keep this in mind when choosing an enclosure.

Pink-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle Life Span

Because it is relatively new to turtle keeping at the time of this writing, this turtle's longevity over decades has not yet been documented. In 1999, I started with full-grown adults, and they look unchanged 12 years later. This suggests that a normal aquatic turtle life span of 30 to 50 years, or even longer, may be possible. As with nearly all turtle species, a stable environment is the key to long life.

Pink-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle Set Ups

Pink-bellied side-necked turtles are very adaptable. You can keep them in shallow water that's only a few times their shell length in depth to water that is as deep as you care to make it.
A glass aquarium with some depth will show off specimens' trademark pink bellies every time they head to the surface.

Hatchlings up to 4 inches in shell length can be kept in a 20-gallon aquarium or similarly sized container. As they grow, the tank's size should be increased by 10 gallons for every inch over 4 inches. Also increase the size of the enclosure by 10 percent (or more, if possible) for every additional turtle.

Ideal water temperature range is 66 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Hatchlings do well in the 70s to low 80s, but will become less active if water temps fall below 65 degrees. They do very well in moderately acidic, neutral, or mildly basic water. A bit of chlorine, and even small amounts of chloramines, do not bother this hearty species. If you're not sure what's in your water, use a dechlorinator. A good rule of thumb is if it's safe for you to drink, you can keep your pink-bellied side-necks in it.

Pink-bellied side-necked turtles will forage around and rest upon plastic plants, rocks and submerged logs. Avoid creating tight spaces in which they might get stuck. Except for American snappers and some of the larger musk turtles, this side-neck gets along with just about every other species of turtle.

Pink-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle Lighting and Temperature

A well-lit aquarium is always nicer for keepers, and it helps display the turtles. Though it's not required because E. subglobosa is not a basking turtle, UVB lighting couldn't hurt and may still provide some benefits. Basking surface temperatures in the low to mid 90s suits this species well. Providing both UVB light and a small, heated basking surface often requires two separate light fixtures; a single timer for both fixtures that matches the ambient lighting schedule in the room where you keep your turtle will make life very easy.

Pink-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle Diet

In the wild, this turtle is thought to feed on mollusks, crustaceans and aquatic insects. Juveniles enjoy high-protein diets. Our pink-bellied side-necks readily accept turtle pellets and cut fish or other seafood (though avoid shrimp) of any type. They will adjust to whatever reasonable feeding schedule you decide upon. We feed ours on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

Pink-Bellied Side-Necked Turtle Handling and Temperament

While pink-bellied side-necked turtles are a pleasure to keep, they should be handled sparingly. This is a highly aquatic species, which means the pink-bellied side-necked turtle is an excellent swimmer that feels most secure when it's in the water. In nature, when turtles are picked up, it's often because they are about to be eaten by a predator. So their instinct is to stay in the water as much as possible. With a little patience, though, your turtle will likely learn to feed from your hand.

Pink-bellied side-necked turtles are tough and unlikely to be bothered by other turtles, other than snappers and large musk turtles. They also don't typically bother other turtles. The pink-bellied side-necks truly is one of the best community turtles available.    

12) Sulcata Tortoise Care Sheet:    

Sulcata Tortoise (Geochelone [Centrochelys] Sulcata)

The most produced tortoises in the world are probably the sulcata tortoises of north central Africa. Sulcata tortoises are sometimes referred to as African spurred, African spur thigh, and just spurred tortoises. As recently as a few decades ago sulcata tortoises were rare in the United States, but they have shown an amazing ability to adapt to various climates and habitats in captivity, and their low cost combined with a curious personality make them tortoises that are commonly sought after by first-time tortoise owners.

Sulcata Tortoise Availability

Sulcata tortoises are bred on a large scale in the U.S., generally in the Southern states, from coast to coast, where it is easier to keep them outdoors year-round. Captive-bred baby sulcata tortoises are available from many sources, including; local pet stores, reptile expos, and directly from breeders.

Importation of sulcata tortoises has ceased, and any wild-caught animals would be large, older animals that are well established in captivity (most of which have found lifetime homes by now). Any young sulcatas that you come across would be captive bred in the U.S.

Pricing for baby sulcata tortoises varies depending on where you get them, size and age, and even the season (when larger numbers of babies are available seasonally, prices can drop for a short time). Once a sulcata is large enough to be confirmed a female, the price is generally higher for that tortoise because of breeding potential. Sulcata tortoises can also often be adopted from rescues or from families that are unable to care for a giant tortoise any longer.

Sulcata Tortoise Size

Sulcata tortoise hatchlings measure approximately 1½ to 2 inches in carapace length. Growth rates of sulcatas are probably more variable than any other tortoise. You could literally have a 10-inch tortoise that is 3 years old or 10 years old. Many adult sulcata tortoises break the 100-pound mark. However, most of the large sulcatas in our collection aren’t much over 100 pounds, but we do have a few. Our big female sulcatas tend to be in the 70 to 90 pound range, and are still growing slowly. These tortoises (males especially) can reach 200 pounds. Any tortoises nearing that weight would be very old. Sulcata tortoises grow rapidly for the first five to 10 years, and then their growth slows with age.

Sulcata Tortoise Life Span

Because sulcata tortoises haven’t really been raised from birth for very long, it’s still hard to determine what age a well-raised sulcata born into captivity is capable of living to. Raised on a lean, high-fiber diet, captive-raised animals in low-stress environments have higher life expectancies. Most indications are that sulcata tortoises can live more than 70 years.

Sulcata Tortoise Caging

Because of their size, sulcata tortoises are best kept by those who have access to an outdoor area, where their tortoise(s) can be kept for most, or all, of the year. We keep our sulcatas in a desert-type setup outdoors with a large grass area in the center and dirt around the perimeter. They commonly “patrol” the perimeter of their enclosures, so we leave it dirt there, because any grass would just be destroyed with time.

Sulcata tortoise enclosures require a sturdy wall at least 24-inches in height above ground, as well as 12- to 24-inches below ground to prevent (or discourage) these tortoises from digging. Concrete masonry blocks work well when cemented in place, as well as a well-built wood wall as a barrier. See-through fences and walls shouldn’t be used, as the tortoises tend to try to escape through or over these walls.

Sulcata tortoises are burrowers if there isn’t a proper hide box accessible as a cool retreat during the summer months or a warm retreat during the winter. There are exceptions to every rule, though. When the tortoises make efforts to dig, these spots should be filled in with large flagstones, etc., to prevent future digging. A single tortoise can be allowed to burrow naturally, but with multiple tortoises in an enclosure, they can “stack up” in the burrows, and the deepest ones will be unable to exit.

Sulcata tortoises are grazers and will eat any grasses and most plants in their enclosure. We plant any of the various clump grasses as well as desert-type mesquite and African sumac trees, which also make for nice cage décor. Fragile plants are likely to be destroyed by the tortoises once the animals have any size to them.

Young sulcata tortoises can be raised indoors. While outdoor housing is preferred anytime the temperatures are in the acceptable range, many people raise their sulcatas indoors for the first few years of life. Probably the best enclosures to use are simple plastic sweaterboxes, or a “tortoise table,” which you can buy or make yourself. The container itself isn’t as big of a deal as the furnishings you put into it, including substrate, lighting, temperature gradients and cage furniture. In cold climates, a suitable enclosure can be built in the garage for large tortoises that need to spend a few months indoors during the winter. These enclosures should be heated enough to keep the tortoises comfortable during the indoor months.

All of our baby sulcata tortoises raised indoors have access to a humid hiding area where they can snuggle in and get a dose of humidity, much like they would in a natural burrow. This humid microclimate helps their shells to grow smoothly and helps in keeping the tortoise hydrated. Tortoises raised without proper humidity tend to dehydrate quickly and form “bumpy” shells as they grow.

Many different substrates can be used in indoor enclosures. For all sizes of tortoise, cypress mulch has proven to be a great bedding. It’s absorbent, safe and relatively low cost. Other options are various hays (timothy, Bermuda, alfalfa, orchard grass, etc.), as well as coconut coir or peat moss. Outdoor enclosures don’t need fancy substrates, provided the soils that are there are mostly natural and not tainted with chemicals or fertilizers.

I also include a few large, flat rocks in an indoor enclosure. They help file down the tortoises’ nails and give them a clean surface for food.

Sulcata Tortoise Lighting and Temperature

Sulcata tortoises that live outdoors are tolerant to various temperature ranges. High temperatures are not going to be a problem provided the tortoise has a shaded area to escape to if desired. The tortoises themselves can handle surprisingly cold temperatures, as low as 45 degrees Fahrenheit, with no problems. When nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees, a heated hide box should be provided that maintains at least 55 to 60 degrees at night (70s is better), or the tortoises should be brought in during those times. Sulcata tortoises are kept outdoors year-round in some parts of the country where nighttime lows in the winter are 20 degrees (including here in Las Vegas). It is absolutely required that these tortoises are checked on each evening to make sure they get into a heated area and do not fall asleep out in the open and become exposed to these temperatures at night.

Indoors, sulcata tortoises can be maintained at normal room temperatures: 68 to 80 degrees. They should also have a basking area heated by an overhead light. This spot should be in the 100-degree range. Like most diurnal, herbivorous reptiles, they need a UVB light in their indoor enclosures to help them properly process the calcium in their diets. Keep lights on 12 to 14 hours a day, and turn off all light and heat sources at night.

Sulcata Tortoise Food

Sulcata tortoises are eager eaters, rarely turning down a meal. With adult tortoises, the best staple diets are various grasses and leaves, the same as their natural diet. They will graze on any of the lawn grasses, mulberry leaves, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves and flowers. With size, most sulcata tortoises will eat grass hays (we like orchard grass hay). Baby and smaller sulcatas have a harder time eating the tougher grass and hay because of their less powerful jaws.

We also use spring mixes (particularly with baby sulcata tortoises), which have several leafy ingredients in them, and we supplement with kale, collard greens, turnip greens and any of the darker lettuce types. Cactus pads have become a major part of the diet of many of our tortoises as well. Mazuri Tortoise Diet is offered occasionally to cover any of the nutritional bases that the other diet may have missed. Variety is the key. Feed tortoises from a grass surface, flat rock or concrete, or from a tray. To prevent them from eating soil or rocks, never feed tortoises directly from a gravel or dirt surface.

Sulcata Tortoise Water

Sulcata tortoises can have small water dishes in their outdoor enclosures. We use shallow, low-sided dishes that are glazed to make cleaning easy. Cleaning must be done on a regular basis, as most tortoises tend to soak in their dishes and defecate in them. I provide water bowls during the hottest parts of the year, but I don’t during cooler times. We also provide small “mud holes” and puddle-areas where the tortoises can sit in to stay cool during the hot months. Tortoises living in areas with regular rainfall drink from puddles and leaves. If you live in areas with prolonged dry periods, such as Las Vegas, offering them water helps to keep them hydrated.

When sulcata tortoises are housed indoors, I prefer not to have standing water in the bowls, because they tend to defecate in them while soaking. In shallow water, the tortoises usually begin drinking immediately and flush their systems at the same time. They need to be soaked outside the enclosure in shallow, warm water once or twice a week for 15 to 30 minutes to get fully hydrated.

Baby and juvenile sulcata tortoises tend to dry out much quicker than larger, more established tortoises. Because of this, I soak baby sulcata tortoises in shallow, warm water up to three times a week, for 10 to 15 minutes, whether they’re housed outdoors or indoors.

Sulcata Tortoise Health

For best results, purchase an alert, active sulcata tortoise with bright, clean eyes, or buy one from a reputable source that will guarantee (at least) a live arrival. These tortoises can suffer from most common reptile health problems, but respiratory infections are the most prevalent.

Sulcata tortoises can also be prone to respiratory infections if they are kept in cool or wet enclosures. They need to be able to dry out, particularly if temperatures are low.

Sulcata Tortoise Handling and Temperament

Contrary to what many sellers tell customers, tortoises generally should not be handled with any regularity. They are easily stressed when overhandled, and children tend to drop them when spooked. These stress factors can lead to a decline in a tortoise’s activity levels and health.

Adult sulcata tortoises are generally more resistant to handling, but all tortoises should be handled carefully. Avoid pinning them down or restricting them. Allow them to carry on in their intended way, especially when they’re young. Older sulcatas are usually pretty tolerant of people.

13) Red-Footed Tortoise Care Sheet:

Red-Footed Tortoise (Chelonoidis carbonaria)

Some of the most popular pet tortoises in the United States are the red-footed tortoises of South America. Red-footed tortoises are easy to acquire, are simple to take care of, remain a size that most can easily handle, and they show amazing colorations on their head, legs and shells. Red-footed tortoises are native to moderate climates and have shown an ability to adapt to various climates and habitats in captivity. Red-footed tortoises’ low cost, combined with a curious personality, make them tortoises that are commonly sought after by first-time tortoisekeepers.

Red-Footed Tortoise Availability

Red-footed tortoises are bred on a large scale in the U.S., generally in the humid southern states, where it is easier to keep them outdoors year round. Captive-bred baby red-footed tortoises are available from many sources, including local pet stores, reptile expos and directly from breeders.

Red-footed tortoises are still imported from the wild, mainly from the Suriname and Guyana localities. They are also farm bred in large numbers in South America and shipped into the U.S. after they reach 4 inches in size. Generally these farm-bred animals have somewhat pyramided shells, whereas the wild-caught red-foots are usually smooth shelled. Because of the U.S. 4-inch law, anything smaller than 4 inches in size can be assumed to be U.S. captive bred and born.

Red-Footed Tortoise Size

Red-footed tortoise hatchlings measure approximately 1½ to 2 inches in carapace length out of the egg. Growth rates are variable depending on many factors, but are mostly based on the amount and quality of food they are taking in as well as the temperatures they are exposed to.

Red-footed tortoise adult size is generally somewhere between 11 to 14 inches in length, with some exceptions to this rule. We have had females as small as 9 inches in length lay eggs, although it is more likely with females in the 11 to 12 inch range. Like most tortoises, red-footed tortoises grow rapidly for the first five to 10 years, and then their growth slows with age.

Red-Footed Tortoise Life Span

The life span of a red-footed tortoise can vary depending on many factors, but most indications are that they can live for more than 50 years. Tortoises kept in ideal conditions that mimic their natural habitat, without the threat of predation, tend to have higher life spans than tortoises raised in artificial settings.

Red-Footed Tortoise Habitat

Red-footed tortoise enclosures require a sturdy wall at least 16 inches in height above ground, as well as a few inches below ground, to prevent (or discourage) these tortoises from digging. Red-footed tortoises aren’t usually burrowing or digging tortoises, so this isn’t as much of a concern as it would be with other tortoise species. See-through fences and walls should not be used, as the tortoises tend to try to escape through or over these walls if they can see the other side.

Young red-footed tortoises can be raised indoors if the outside conditions are beyond their tolerance. While outdoor housing is preferred anytime the temperatures are in the acceptable range, many people raise their red-foots indoors for the first few years. Probably the best enclosures to use indoors are simple, plastic sweaterboxes or a “tortoise table,” which you can buy or make yourself. The container itself isn’t as important as the furnishings put into it, which include substrate, lighting, temperature gradients and cage furniture. In colder climates, a suitable enclosure can be built in the garage for large tortoises during the winter. These enclosures should be heated enough to keep the tortoises comfortable during the indoor months.

On top of keeping a moderate humidity level in the enclosure, all baby red-footed tortoises raised indoors should have access to a humid hiding area where they can snuggle in and get a dose of humidity, much like they would in a natural burrow. This more humid microclimate helps their shells to grow smoothly and helps in keeping the tortoise hydrated. Tortoises raised without proper humidity tend to dehydrate quickly and form “bumpy” shells as they grow.

Many different substrates can be used for indoor red-footed tortoise enclosures. For all sizes of tortoise, cypress mulch has proven to be a great bedding. It’s absorbent, safe and relatively low cost. Other good options include coconut coir or peat moss. Outdoor enclosures don’t need fancy substrates, provided that the soil is natural and not tainted with any chemicals or fertilizers.

I also include a few large, flat rocks in the enclosure. They help file down the tortoises’ nails and give them a clean surface for food.

Red-Footed Tortoise Lighting and Temperature

Red-footed tortoises that live outdoors are tolerant to various temperature ranges. High temperatures are generally not going to be a problem provided that the tortoise has a shaded area to escape to if desired and constant access to water to soak in and drink.

We keep our adult red-footed tortoises outdoors in Las Vegas with temperatures of up to 115 degrees Fahrenheit occasionally and have had no losses to heat. Keep in mind the fact that our red-footed tortoise “jungle” is sprayed with sprinklers several times a day, which lowers the overall temperature in that area and raises humidity. The entire area is covered with 80 percent shade cloth.

The tortoises themselves can also handle surprisingly cold temperatures, as low as 45 degrees, with no problems. When nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees, a heated hide box should be provided that maintains at least 60 degrees at night (in the 70s is better), or the tortoises should be brought in during those times. Red-footed tortoises are kept outdoors year round in some parts of the country where nighttime lows in the winter are 20 degrees (including here in Las Vegas). It is absolutely required that these tortoises are checked on each evening to make sure they get into a heated area and do not fall asleep out in the open and become exposed to cold temperatures at night.

Indoors, red-footed tortoises can be maintained at normal room temperatures: 68 to 80 degrees. They should also have a basking area heated by an overhead light or a ceramic heat emitter. This warm spot should be in the 90-degree range. While some don’t think it’s needed, we provide a UVB light in the indoor enclosures to help them properly process the calcium in their diets. When placed overhead, it will not lead to eye damage as is sometimes claimed. Lights should run 12 to 14 hours a day, and a mild heat source can be used 24/7 under or over the hide box area (small heat pads, red bulbs or ceramic heat emitters work great for this). Lamp timers make the light cycle consistent and easy.

Red-footed tortoises exist in a wide variety of habitats in the wild, from grassland to jungle, almost all with moderate to high humidity and moderate temperatures. Red-foots can handle variable amounts of humidity in captivity once grown, but babies should be kept humid to ensure proper smooth shell growth in their first few years.

Red-footed tortoises do not hibernate but will go through a winter slow-down period during cooler weather and shortened day-lengths. As adults, red-footed tortoises can safely handle body temperatures as low as 45 degrees at night as long as they are able to heat up into the 70s during the day. Summer temperatures up to 100 degrees can be tolerated as long as there is a cooler, shaded retreat the tortoise can get into. Moisture is not a problem in warmer temperatures (a cool mudhole on a hot day), but the tortoises should be kept dry on cold nights.

Red-Footed Tortoise Food

Red-footed tortoises are typically eager eaters, rarely turning down a meal. With adult tortoises, we feed them the best mix possible of various fruits, veggies, flowers and leaves. They will also graze on mulberry leaves, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves and flowers. They enjoy Mazuri tortoise diet as much as any tortoise does, and having this on hand works well for a backup plan if you can’t get to the store for fresh greens, and it is a good supplemental diet. Mazuri tortoise diet works well to cover any of the nutritional bases that the other diet may have missed.

We also use spring mixes (particularly with baby red-footed tortoises), which have several leafy ingredients in them, and we supplement with kale, collard greens, turnip greens and any of the darker lettuce types. Cactus pads have become a major part of the diet of many of our tortoises as well. Variety is the key.

It is generally thought that red-footed tortoises need more protein in their diet than many other species. While we don’t offer ours a direct source of protein, they probably do take the opportunity to eat an earthworm or a grub if they come across them in their enclosures. Some keepers offer insects as a supplemental food source (waxworms, mealworms, superworms or earthworms). Some even offer baby mice as a protein source in the diet of their captive red-footed tortoises. Mazuri tortoise diet is higher in protein than a normal vegetarian tortoise diet, so by using this in the diets of our tortoises, we think their needs are being met.

Feed tortoises from a grass surface, flat rock or concrete, or from a tray. Tip – Light-colored trays stay much cooler in the sun and prevent the food from drying out as fast.To prevent them from eating soil or rocks, never feed tortoises directly from a gravel or dirt surface. Red-footed tortoises are grazers and will munch on any plants in their enclosure. We like to use various hibiscus, palm trees and clump grasses in our enclosures to provide them with a somewhat renewable food source.

Red-Footed Tortoise Water

Red-footed tortoises should have water dishes or small ponds in their outdoor enclosures. We use shallow, low-sided dishes that are glazed to make cleaning easy. Cleaning must be done on a regular basis, as most tortoises tend to soak in their dishes and defecate in them. We provide water dishes to our red-footed tortoises all year, although their use of them in the winter is very minimal. We also provide small “mudholes” and puddle-areas that the tortoises can sit in to stay cool during the hot months.

When red-footed tortoises are housed indoors, shallow water dishes can be used, but again, they need very regular cleaning. In shallow water, the tortoises usually begin drinking immediately and flush their systems at the same time. Baby and juvenile red-footed tortoises tend to dry out much quicker than larger, more established tortoises. They can also be soaked outside the enclosure in shallow, warm water once or twice a week for 15 to 30 minutes to get fully hydrated, which also helps keep the main enclosure clean. This is a form of “forced hydration” but works well in keeping the tortoise fully hydrated.

Red-Footed Tortoise Health

For best results, purchase an alert, active red-footed tortoise with bright, clean eyes, or buy one from a reputable source that will guarantee (at least) a live arrival. These tortoises can suffer from most common reptile health problems, but respiratory infections and parasites in the case of imported tortoises are the most prevalent.

Red-footed tortoises can also be prone to respiratory infections if they are kept in cool or wet enclosures. This is evident if the tortoise has a bubbly nose or raspy breathing or makes a gurgling sound as it breathes. In the early stages, it can sometimes be corrected by raising temperatures and lowering humidity for a week or two, but if it gets to the point of bubbling or foaming at the mouth or nose, a vet should be consulted.

Red-Footed Tortoise Handling and Temperament

Contrary to what many sellers tell customers, tortoises generally should not be handled with any regularity. They are easily stressed when over handled, and children tend to drop them when spooked. These stress factors can lead to a decline in a tortoise’s activity levels and health.

Juvenile and older red-footed tortoises are generally more resistant to handling, but all tortoises should be handled carefully. Avoid pinning them down or restricting them. Allow them to carry on in their intended way, especially when they’re young. Older red-footed tortoises are usually pretty tolerant of people.

14) Aldabra Tortoise Care Sheet:

Aldabra Tortoise (Geochelone gigantea)

Aldabra tortoises are found on the islands of the Aldabra Atoll in the Seychelles, and they are one of the largest tortoises in the world (the largest tortoise on record being the Galapagos tortoise – Geochelone nigra). Aldabra tortoises have a varied habitat on their home and introduced islands, ranging from mangrove swamps and coastal dune areas to grasslands and scrub forests.

Aldabra Tortoise Availability

You can find Aldabra tortoises for sale at select reptile stores, reptile shows and sometimes on the Internet. If you are able to find one, no doubt you will find them very rewarding to keep.

Aldabra Tortoise Size

The average weight of an adult male Aldabra tortoise is approximately 550 pounds, although there is one at the Fort Worth Zoo that weighs in at nearly 800 pounds.

Aldabra Tortoise Life Span

Aldabra tortoises are long lived, some having reached more than 200 years of age. The oldest known Aldabra in captivity at the time of this writing is 170 years old.

Aldabra Tortoise Diet

Aldabra tortoises are mostly herbivores. In the wild, they eat grass, leaves, plants, stems and other tasty weeds. They will also feed on insects and dead animals, even their own kind. In captivity they will eat grass, flowers, cactus pads, all sorts of leafy greens and commercial tortoise food. They also like fruit and melons.

Aldabra Tortoise Behavior and Life History

Aldabra tortoises spend the mornings and early evenings eating, and they spend the hotter parts of the day in the shade or lounging in shallow water holes. They are deceptively quick when they want to be and will actually sprint away if frightened. If they think you have a treat for them they will sprint right to you.

Aldabra Tortoise Housing

Keeping Aldabra tortoises outdoors is usually the best way to house them. Hatchlings up to 2 years old can be housed indoors, but once they get beyond that, they need the great outdoors to roam. For babies up to a year old, tortoise tubs or the equivalent work very well. Use bark or crushed coconut for the bottom of the enclosure. Provide a hotspot of about 90 degrees Fahrenheit at one end of the enclosure with an ambient temperature of about 80 degrees. Mercury vapor lights work well for this, as they provide both UVB and heat all in one fixture.

Aldabra tortoises get large, so as a rule of thumb, the bigger the outdoor enclosure, the better. I house mine in a pen made of ornate cinder blocks. The wall is a bit over two feet tall, and the paddock area is 100 feet by 30 feet. Depending on how many you plan to house, the size of your paddock can vary. Aldabra tortoises do best at temperatures of 80 to 95 degrees. Provide your tortoise house with heat lamps, heat emitters and/or large outdoor-use heat pads (“pig blankets”) to maintain the proper temperature even when the weather outside is cold. The entrance to the house should be large enough for the tortoise to easily enter and exit, and a door is handy to lock the tortoise inside on very cold days or nights. Aldabra tortoises love mudholes, and if you can build one, or a shallow pond for them to soak in, they will be very content. Unlike most tortoises, they are also good swimmers.

Aldabra Tortoise Breeding

Between February and May, females lay anywhere from nine and 25 eggs in a shallow nest. Usually less than half of the eggs are fertile. Females can produce multiple clutches of eggs in a year. After incubating, the tiny tortoises hatch between October and December.

Artificial incubation works best. However, if you incubate the eggs at between 81 to 86 degrees, they will usually hatch in less time, about 90 to 108 days.

Aldabra Tortoise Considerations

Aldabra tortoises get very large and live a very long time. They need lots of space, special habitat setups and a bit of care. They make very rewarding pets as long as you have the time and space to dedicate to their needs. You'll more than likely have to arrange for their long-term care in advance since they are probably going to outlive you. They are smart, personable and very entertaining. I find that after a long day at work, just sitting outside and watching them eat can calm the nerves of a hectic day.

15) Leopard Tortoise Care Sheet:

Leopard Tortoise (Stigmochelys [Geochelone] pardalis)

The leopard tortoise is the second largest tortoise native to Africa. Only the African spurred tortoise is larger. Two subspecies are generally recognized. Stigmochelys pardalis babcocki is the most common species in the pet trade. It has a large natural range resulting in geographic variations in size, color and temperature tolerance.Stigmochelys pardalis pardalis is from South Africa and Namibia. S. p. pardalis can be distinguished from S. p. babcocki as it is generally darker in color, may not be as high domed and generally grows larger.

Without knowing the origin of a leopard tortoise, it is difficult to distinguish adults of the two species due to the geographic variations of S. p. babcocki. Hatchling tortoises of each species are generally distinguished based on the number of dark spots on each scute. S. p. babcocki generally have one black dot or no dots, while S. p. pardalisgenerally have two black dots on each scute.

It is possible additional species of leopard tortoises will be described. There is a giant variation native to Ethiopia and Somalia, which is currently classified as S. p. babcocki.

Leopard Tortoise Availability

Captive-bred leopard tortoises are generally available. Import of wild caught specimens into the United States was banned in 2000 due to concerns from a tick with heartwater disease found on wild specimens. Before the ban leopard tortoises were commonly imported, and many people currently breed leopard tortoises, however Stigmachelys pardalis pardalis is less common in collections than Stigmachelys pardalis babcocki.

Leopard Tortoise Size

Adult leopard tortoises measure from 10 to 18 inches long depending on the geographic origin and subspecies of the tortoise. The South African subspecies,Stigmachelys pardalis pardalis, may grow to 24 inches and the giants from Ethiopia and Somalia may approach 30 inches. Females often grow larger than males, however depending on the origin of the specimen this may be reversed, or male and females may be of similar size. Due to wide geographic variations there are no set standards. Males may always be distinguished from females by their concaved plastron and larger tail.

Leopard Tortoise Life Span

Leopard tortoises live between 50 and 100 years in the wild.

Leopard Tortoise Caging

The preferred setup for adult leopard tortoises is outdoors. However, if you live in a climate too cold for such an enclosure, you may house the tortoise indoors. A pair of leopard tortoises can be kept in a 10 foot by 10 foot pen. The walls should be at least 18 inches high and may be made of wood, block or other material that prevents the tortoise from seeing through the wall. Leopard tortoises are not escape artists and do not climb, burrow, or display the aggressive breeding, biting and ramming that the Mediterranean species do. Multiple males and females may be kept together as they are not territorial like African spurred tortoises.

An outdoor enclosure should have a hide box and a variety of shrubs, grass or bushes to provide the tortoise with protection from the elements and a sense of security. A portion of the pen may be planted with grass or alfalfa for the tortoises to eat. Bare ground is also required because tortoises dig in the dirt to lay eggs. Some rolling terrain is recommended. Leopard tortoises often bask on slopes to maximize sun exposure or dig into slopes to lay eggs.

Adult leopard tortoises can be housed indoors in a stock tank, plastic pool or large tub. Although a pair of adult leopard tortoises could be maintained in an enclosure measuring 6 feet long, 4 feet wide and 1.5 feet tall, larger areas allow more time between cleaning and changing substrates. It is still recommended that the tortoise be housed outdoors when the weather permits.

If your leopard tortoise is only housed indoors at night or during brief winter periods, newspaper works as a substrate. For a permanent indoor enclosure, substrates such as grass clippings, peat moss or potting soil work well. Also include different microclimates, including a warm, moist hide box and dry area with a basking light. The size of the leopard tortoise also plays a role. Hatchlings are raised almost exclusively inside. This allows better monitoring of food intake, temperature control and protection from predators.

Leopard Tortoise Lighting and Temperature

Leopard tortoises do not hibernate. In parts of their range they may experience freezing temperatures and seek shelter in animal burrows, but in most of their range they experience a much narrower range of temperatures. Generally that’s between 70 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

For indoor care of a leopard tortoise, temperatures should be maintained between 75 and 90 degrees, with a basking spot of 95 degrees. Depending on the indoor air temperatures, a heat light may be required at night or during the day for the tortoise to thermoregulate and raise its temperature to optimal levels for digestion. Exposure to natural sunlight or UVB light plays an important role in how the body absorbs and uses calcium. UVB light or natural sunlight allows the tortoise to produce vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is critical to the tortoise in its ability to absorb and use the available calcium. UVB can be obtained from fluorescent tubes specially made for reptile use or from mercury vapor bulbs, which also provide some heat. If fluorescent tubes are used for UVB, a separate light may be required for heat.

In outdoor enclosures leopard tortoises may handle a wider range of temperatures, but once temperatures drop into the 50s at night or daily high temperatures fail to exceed 70 degrees, move tortoises indoors or provide heat. Heat may be provided with items such as ceramic heat emitters, infrared heat lights or “pig blankets” (a solid, flat piece of fiberglass with wire heating coils inside).

Respiratory problems may occur when a leopard tortoise gets chilled or is kept in suboptimal conditions. Minor problems may be corrected with increased temperatures. If not corrected, minor problems can progress to more serious conditions such as pneumonia. Signs of a respiratory problem include labored breathing, a nasal discharge, a gaping mouth, puffy eyes, lethargy and a loss of appetite.

Leopard Tortoise Food

As grazers, leopard tortoises feed on a variety of grasses and vegetation. They require a high-fiber diet rich in calcium. In addition to grazing the captive diet may be supplemented a couple times a week with collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens and flowers, hibiscus leaves and flowers, grape leaves, escarole, mulberry tree leaves, spineless cactus pads (Opuntia spp.), carrots, zucchini, butternut squash, pumpkin, mushrooms, sweet potato, yellow squash, and bell peppers. Commercial diets may also be included in the diet.

A small portion of the leopard tortoise’s diet may include fruits, such as tomatoes, apples, papayas, cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon, strawberries, raspberries, grapes, mangos and bananas. Fruit should be no more than about 5 percent of the overall diet.

Although some tortoisekeepers supplement the diet with manufactured vitamins and vitamin D3, I have not found these necessary if the leopard tortoises are provided a varied diet and exposed to UVB light. Hatchlings should be fed daily and may benefit from food that is lightly sprinkled with calcium powder several times a week.

Leopard Tortoise Water

Leopard tortoises readily drink standing water. A shallow water dish may be provided, but check it daily, and clean it as required. The size of the water dish doesn’t really matter, however it shouldn’t be too deep where the tortoise could get stuck in the dish. Hatchlings may be soaked once or twice a week in shallow, warm water. They drink and often defecate in the water while being soaked.

Leopard Tortoise Handling and Temperament

Tortoises are not a pet for young children, and they should be handled infrequently. Leopard tortoises are shy and will withdraw their head and limbs. Over time, however, they generally learn to recognize their keepers and will come for food.

Breeding Leopard Tortoises and Egg Incubation

Leopard tortoises are not aggressive, so multiple males and females may be kept together. Females may lay one to five clutches of eggs approximately four to six weeks apart. Eggs are laid at various times of the year based on the origin of the tortoise. Clutch size ranges from six to 20 eggs.

Place leopard tortoise eggs in a plastic shoebox for incubation on a substrate of potting soil, vermiculite, perlite or peat moss. Incubation temperatures may range from about 82 degrees to 89 degrees. Eggs of tortoises from some locations may benefit from a cooling period of 30 days or more at 65 to 70 degrees to break diapause and allow the embryo to start development. If you experience poor hatch rates, a cooling period is suggested. Incubation may take 150 to 400 days.

16)Mata Mata Turtle Care Sheet:

Mata Mata Turtle (Chelus fimbriatus)

The mata mata turtle is one of the neatest-looking turtles on the planet. It looks like debris found at the bottom of a vernal pool, such as leaves. In the wild someone might walk right past a large specimen. The carapace contains brown, red and black coloration. The species has a wide head and a pointy nose. Its neck has a rigid texture to help with the camouflage. Hatchling mata matas are more brightly colored and appear whitish or yellowish like a tropical leaf.

Mata Mata Turtle Availability

Mata mata turtles are quite available as of 2009. Although they are imported regularly, that might change in the near future. There is more supply than demand simply because the turtles grow so large and are not for beginners. Creating the proper enclosure for these turtles is one issue that keeps demand down.

Mata Mata Turtle Size

Mata mata turtles can measure more than 2 feet long. However, the typical size ranges from 16 to 20 inches long for full-sized adults.

Mata Mata Turtle Life Span

Exact details for the mata mata turtle life span is not really known, but most documentation shows the turtle’s average life is anywhere from 40 to 75 years. Some turtles can live more than 100 years if given the right care.

Mata Mata Turtle Caging

Mata mata turtle like slightly acidic water with a pH near 5 or 6. Increase acidity by adding sphagnum moss, which is very acidic. Shallow water is a good idea. A water depth of 8 to 10 inches for an adult, or 3 to 4 inches for a hatchling, is sufficient. Although these turtles spend much of their time in the water, they don’t swim around much. They lie still on the bottom most of the time.

Larger mata mata turtles, 16 inches and longer, require larger tubs or setups at least 4 feet by 4 feet. Smaller turtles can do well in smaller enclosures. The enclosure should allow for adequate room for the mata mata to move around. Make sure you have good filtration with these turtles. Oxygen flow is key because it helps fight unwanted bacteria in the water. Water should be changed regularly and kept as clear as possible.

Aquatic plants or artificial plants can be added for hiding places, which help reduce a mata mata’s stress. A log, branch or rock is a good idea for a basking area. Avoid using big rocks in the enclosure because this can cause cuts and scrapes that can lead to shell rot.

Mata Mata Turtle Lighting and Temperature

Water temperatures around 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit are fine. Mata mata turtles are found in tropical environments, so they require higher temperatures. Position a basking light, such as a 75- to 150-watt heat bulb, about one foot above a basking spot. Add an additional UVB-emitting bulb for ultraviolet light. The basking area should be in the mid- to upper 90s.

Mata Mata Turtle Food

Mata mata turtles are carnivores and prefer live fish. Minnows, platies, mollies, guppies, goldfish and sunfish are a fine selection. I have seen some turtles take night crawlers, as well. It is unusual to have them feed on commercial foods. You can keep the enclosure stocked with fish at all times and allow the mata mata to feed freely.

Be sure to put plenty of feeders fish in the mata mata's enclosure. It can be difficult for your mata mata to try to catch one or two fish when it is hungry. Try to keep it stocked with 30 or 40 fish at a time. It will eat many at first and then a few here and there throughout the next 4 or 5 days depending on the size of your mata mata. A full size mata mata around can eat feeder (small) goldfish or larger rosies (minnows).

Mata Mata Turtle Handling and Temperament

I would advise against handling imported mata mata turtles until you get this species established and comfortable. This means the turtle is eating, active, and does not show any signs of illness or bad health. Mata mata turtles hatched in captivity can be handled a little more often, but small hatchlings should start eating and show signs of growth before you do much handling.

17) Russian Tortoise Care Sheet:

Russian Tortoise (Testudo [Agrionemys] horsfieldii)

A popular pet tortoise, Russian tortoises are one of the most readily available tortoise species. They are small, making them easy for most people with limited space to keep. They are also feisty, eager to eat and more active than some other tortoises. When allowed to burrow, Russian tortoises also have one of the highest tolerances for temperature extremes. They are one of the few species that can be kept outdoors in Las Vegas, Nev., year round. These factors make Russian tortoises attractive for new tortoisekeepers and a fun tortoise for seasoned veterans.

Russian Tortoise Availability

Most Russian tortoises are imported into the United States. Compared to the number of imported tortoises, captive production of this species is relatively low. You should assume that most adult or subadult Russian tortoises for sale are wild-caught (imported). Captive-bred babies are rarely raised to adult size and sold at the low prices that these imported Russian tortoises sell for.

 

Russian Tortoise Size

Russian tortoise hatchlings measure about 1 inch in carapace length. As they mature, they reach a maximum length of 8 to 10 inches. Females are normally a little larger than males at full size. When females are about 6 inches long, they are large enough to begin producing eggs. Russian tortoises are almost always imported as young adults between 4 and 5 inches in carapace length. These tortoises are large enough to handle subprime conditions during shipping but small enough to fit many in a fixed-size shipping crate. Russian tortoises larger than about 6 inches long can be difficult to find.

Russian Tortoise Life Span

Russian tortoises can live more than 40 years. Raised on a lean, high-fiber diet, captive-raised animals in low-stress environments have higher life expectancies.

Russian Tortoise Caging

The preferred method for raising Russian tortoises is an outdoor enclosure in a warmer climate. Pens for one or two adults should be at least 2 feet by 4 feet. Enclosure walls should be set into the ground 6 to 12 inches to prevent the tortoises from digging under the sides, and they should be 12 inches or higher aboveground.

Russian tortoises are burrowers. They tend to dig into corners and against objects. Placing large rocks under the soil in the corners helps prevent tortoises from digging out. In higher or lower temperatures, they attempt to go underground to insulate themselves from the extremes. Building Russian tortoises underground hide boxes that maintain more stable temperatures helps to keep them from burrowing too much. Shaded grassy areas that get regular water help to keep smaller tortoises cool.

Russian tortoises are sure to try to eat any plant accessible to them in their pens. They prefer wide-leafed plants and weeds. They really do not eat grass unless they are out of options. Check all plants in the enclosure to ensure they are safe.

Russian tortoises housed indoors can be caged in large plastic bins, stock tanks or small plastic pools. One to two adults can be kept in an enclosure measuring at least 5 square feet, with sidewalls 8 inches or higher. More space is much better. Babies can get away with smaller housing. Tortoises kept in small enclosures become restless and spend much of the day trying to get out of the enclosures.

Many different substrates can be used. I prefer a combination of dirt or sand mixed with peat moss or fine coconut coir. Using only sand makes running around somewhat difficult for the tortoises. Their feet sink with every step. Mixing soils helps to solidify the foundation.

I also like to include a few large, flat rocks in an indoor enclosure. They help file down the tortoises’ nails and give them a clean surface for food. Russian tortoises also enjoy climbing, so try to provide an enclosure that gives them that opportunity.

Russian Tortoise Lighting and Temperature

Russian tortoises living outdoors and allowed to dig burrows are very capable of taking care of themselves as far as temperatures are concerned. I keep them outdoors in Las Vegas year round without additional heat sources. Winter lows are in the 20s (degrees Fahrenheit), and summer highs near 120 degrees.

Russian tortoises can handle high temperatures only if they can get underground where it’s cooler. Keeping any tortoise on an outdoor patio or anything aboveground when it’s over 100 degrees is too hot for them. Russian tortoises are most active when temperatures are between 60 and 90 degrees, but they remain active during the cooler parts of the day in midsummer, or they sleep underground in a burrow.

Russian tortoises hibernate underground during the winter if they are allowed some time to dig a burrow before cold temperatures set in. In Las Vegas, my tortoises bed down at various times during the fall and come out of hibernation in mid-February.

Indoors, Russian tortoises can be maintained at normal room temperatures: 68 to 80 degrees. They should also have access to an area heated by an overhead light. This spot should be in the 90- to 100-degree range. Like most diurnal, herbivorous reptiles, they need a UVB light in their indoor enclosures to help them properly process the calcium in their diets. These tortoises can handle nighttime temperatures into the low 50s without a problem.

Russian tortoises do not need to hibernate to be healthy, so tortoises kept indoors and maintained at stable temperatures will never skip a beat while winter winds below outside. Keep lights on 12 to 14 hours a day, and turn off all light and heat sources at night.

Russian Tortoise Food

Russian tortoises are enthusiastic eaters, and the destruction they wreak on the plants in most outdoor enclosures is proof of this. They prefer broadleaf weeds and eagerly eat almost any leafy greens or vegetables offered to them. We regularly use spring mixes, which have several leafy ingredients in them. We supplement with kale, collared greens, turnip greens and any of the darker lettuce types. Variety is the key, and for their size, these tortoises do some serious eating.

I plant many different types of safe, leafy weeds in their outdoor enclosures in the spring. Dandelions are one of my favorite food sources for all tortoises. It might also be useful to partition off parts of the enclosure to allow plants to recover, and rotate the tortoises’ access to the separate areas. We also plant grasses, clovers and various other safe plants throughout the enclosure. If given full access to all available space, they will almost surely eat the plants down to nothing by midsummer. 

Russian Tortoise Water

Russian tortoises can have small water dishes in their outdoor enclosures. We use shallow, low sided dishes that are glazed to make cleaning easy. Cleaning needs to be done on a regular basis, as most tortoises tend to soak in their dishes and “dirty” them while they’re in there. I provide water bowls during the hottest parts of the year, but I don’t during cooler times. Tortoises living in areas with regular rainfall drink from puddles and leaves. If they live in areas with prolonged dry periods, such as Las Vegas, offering them water helps to keep them hydrated.

When Russian tortoises are housed indoors, I prefer not to have standing water in the bowls because they tend to defecate in them while soaking. In shallow water, the tortoises usually begin drinking immediately and flush their systems at the same time. They can be soaked outside the enclosure in shallow water once or twice a week for 15 to 30 minutes to get them fully hydrated.

Babies and juveniles tend to dry out much quicker than larger, more established tortoises. Because of this, I briefly soak baby Russian tortoises in shallow water up to three times a week, for 10 to 15 minutes, whether they’re housed outdoors or indoors.

Russian Tortoise Health

For best results, purchase an alert, active Russian tortoise with bright, clean eyes, or buy one from a reputable source that will guarantee at least a live arrival. These tortoises can suffer from most common reptile health problems, but parasites and respiratory infections are probably the most common.

Although one of the more hardy tortoise species, wild-caught Russian tortoises usually have internal parasites. These parasites are not a huge burden on the animals in the wild, but when tortoises are confined to a small area and they endure the additional stresses of importation, the parasites can build up their numbers to levels potentially deadly to the tortoise. Taking a fresh fecal sample to a reptile veterinarian can get you some idea of the types of parasites present, their numbers and the drugs needed to treat them. Russian tortoises can also be prone to respiratory infections if they are kept in cool or wet enclosures. They need to be able to dry out, particularly if temperatures are low.

Russian Tortoise Handling and Temperament

Contrary to what many sellers tell customers, tortoises generally should not be handled with any regularity. They are easily stressed when overhandled, and children tend to drop them when spooked. These stress factors can lead to a decline in a tortoise’s activity levels and health. Adult Russian tortoises are generally more resistant to handling, but all tortoises should be handled carefully. Avoid pinning them down or restricting them. Allow them to carry on with their intended ways.

18) Indian Star Tortoise Care Sheet:

Indian Star Tortoise (Geochelone elegans)

Indian star tortoises are popular based on their size, personality and appearance. Their care is similar to the leopard tortoise. With yellow lines radiating from the center of each scute and contrasting with their black base color, star tortoises are one of the world’s most attractive tortoise species. They also are not territorial. Multiple males and females may be kept together without the fighting, aggressive biting and ramming encountered during breeding by the European species.

Indian star tortoises are native to India, Sri Lanka and southeastern Pakistan. Although there are no formally recognized subspecies, there are geographically separate variants. In the United States herpkeepers typically identify Indian and Sri Lankan star tortoises, but both are classified as Geochelone elegans.

Indian Star Tortoise Availability

Only captive-bred star tortoises are available because they are protected throughout their natural range. There is no legal export of wild-caught specimens.

Indian Star Tortoise Size

Females grow larger than males. Females typically attain a length of about 7 or 8 inches, and males typically only reach 5 or 6 inches in length. Specimens from Sri Lanka and northwest India grow larger. Sri Lankan females may grow to 15 inches long, but males only reach 8 or 9 inches long.

Indian Star Tortoise Life Span

Reports range from 30 to 80 years. Captive star tortoises under proper care may live longer than wild tortoises, which might experience droughts, fires and predators.

Indian Star Tortoise Caging

The preferred setup for adult star tortoises is outdoors. However, if you live in a climate too cold for the tortoises, you may house them indoors. The size of the tortoise also plays a role in its caging. Hatchlings are raised almost exclusively inside. This protects the tortoises from predators and allows better monitoring of food intake and temperature control.

A pen 6 feet long by 6 feet wide is sufficient for one to four tortoises. The walls should be about a foot high and made of block or wood, so the tortoises cannot see through or over them. Star tortoises do not dig, so the walls do not need to be buried. However, sinking the walls into the ground helps to prevent rodents or other animals from burrowing under them. An outdoor enclosure should have a hide box and a variety of shrubs, grasses or bushes to provide protection from the elements and a sense of security. A portion of the pen may be planted with grass or alfalfa for the tortoises to eat. Some rolling terrain is recommended. Tortoises often bask on slopes to maximize sun exposure or dig into them to lay eggs. Bare ground is also required for breeding animals because female tortoises dig in the dirt to lay eggs.

Indoors, adult star tortoises can be permanently housed in a stock tank, plastic pool or large tub. Although a pair of adult star tortoises could be maintained in an enclosure 3 feet long by 2 feet wide, larger enclosures allow you to go longer between cleaning and changing substrates. A clean environment is critical to maintaining a healthy tortoise. Grass clippings, peat moss or potting soil work well as a substrate for permanent indoor enclosures. If a tortoise is only housed indoors at night or during a brief winter period, newspaper works well as a substrate. An indoor enclosure should include different microclimates, including a warm, moist hide box and dry area with a basking light.

Indian Star Tortoise Lighting and Temperature

The optimal temperature for star tortoises is between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. They can handle temperatures around 40 degrees for brief periods, but when nighttime temperatures drop into the 50s or high temperatures fail to exceed 70 degrees, the tortoises should be moved indoors or provided with heat. In wet conditions or high humidity, temperatures should stay above 75 degrees. The combination of cold and wet can be deadly to your tortoise and must be avoided. Moisture levels should be low when the temperature is low, and moisture levels may rise when temperatures are high. High dry temperatures are also acceptable and in fact are provided most of the summer. Star tortoises don’t hibernate, and they cannot survive freezing temperatures. If star tortoises are maintained entirely indoors, temperatures may range from 75 to 90 degrees.

Exposure to natural sunlight or ultraviolet light plays an important role in how a star tortoise absorbs and uses calcium. UVB light or natural sunlight helps the tortoise produce vitamin D3, which helps the tortoise absorb and use the available calcium. Basking in natural, unfiltered sunlight is the best method to ensure sufficient D3 is available for calcium absorption. It is recommended that tortoises have a calcium-rich diet with a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 2-1. Some tortoisekeepers supplement the diet with manufactured vitamins and D3, but I have not found this to be necessary if the tortoises are provided a varied diet and exposure to UVB light.

Indoors, UVB can be obtained from fluorescent tubes specially made for use by reptiles or from mercury vapor bulbs, which also provide some heat. If fluorescent tubes are used for UVB, a separate lamp may be required for heat, so the tortoise can thermoregulate and raise its temperature to optimal levels for digestion. This heat source should provide a basking area of about 95 degrees.

Indian Star Tortoise Food

Star tortoises graze and feed on a variety of grasses and vegetation. They require a high-fiber diet rich in calcium. Their captive diet may include grasses, greens, vegetables, fruit, and prepackaged or commercial diets.

Grasses may include but aren’t limited to Bermuda grass, rye, mature alfalfa (not sprouts), blue grass and fescue. Greens may include but aren’t limited to collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens and flowers, hibiscus leaves and flowers, grape leaves, escarole, and mulberry tree leaves. Vegetables may include but aren’t limited to spineless cactus pads (Opuntia species), carrots, zucchini, butternut squash, pumpkin, snap or snow peas, mushrooms, sweet potato, yellow squash and bell peppers.

A small portion of their diet may include fruits, such as tomatoes, apples, papayas, cantaloupes, honeydews, watermelons, strawberries, raspberries, grapes, mangos and bananas.

Indian Star Tortoise Water

Star tortoises readily drink standing water, so provide a water dish, but check it daily, and clean it as required. Hatchlings may be soaked once or twice a week in shallow, warm water. They will drink and often defecate or pass urate waste, which has a white pastelike appearance.

Indian Star Tortoise Health

Star tortoises are prone to respiratory problems, which occur when a tortoise is cold or is kept in suboptimal conditions. Signs of a respiratory problem include labored breathing, a nasal discharge, a gaping mouth, puffy eyes, lethargy and a loss of appetite. If not corrected, minor problems can progress to more serious conditions, such as pneumonia.

To correct minor respiratory problems, increase the warmth of the enclosure with an extra heat source, such as a fixture with an incandescent bulb or a heating pad under the enclosure. Bump up the temperature, and increase the hotspot 5 to 10 degrees. The added heat will help boost a tortoise’s immune system and allow it to better fight infection. Keep the enclosure hot and dry. Soak the tortoise to keep it well hydrated, and ensure water is available to drink.

Severe cases, or tortoises that do not respond to added heat, will typically require a course of antibiotic drugs prescribed by a veterinarian.

Indian Star Tortoise Handling and Temperament

Not a good pet for young children, tortoises should be handled infrequently. Some star tortoises are shy. They will withdraw their head and limbs, but they will generally learn to recognize their keeper and will come for food.

19) Spotted Turtle Care Sheet:

Spotted Turtle (Clemmys guttata)

The spotted turtle is one of the smallest full-size turtles found in the United States. Its black shell is peppered with yellow spots, which vary depending on the spotted turtle’s age. Older turtles tend to have many more spots, sometimes more than 125 scattered across their shell and face. Younger turtles may have just a few spots, often only one per scute. A spotted turtle's hingeless plastron is yellow and orange with some blotches of black. Its legs are mainly black with red or orange mixed in with the yellow spots.

Sex is easily determined in spotted turtle adults. Males have a black chin, whereas females have a much brighter orange or reddish chin. Males also have a longer, thicker tail. In most adults, males have brownish eyes, and females have orange eyes.

Spotted Turtle Availability

Spotted turtles are fairly common in the U.S. More and more people produce them each year. Because of captive breeding, their U.S. population has risen during the past couple of years. Many breeders are getting females to triple— or quadruple— clutch each year, which is not known to occur in the wild. In states where spotted turtles are legal to sell, hatchlings sell for about $75 to $95. Their value has come down dramatically during the past four years because of the increase in captive breeding.

Spotted Turtle Size

Adults range from about 4 to 6 inches long. The average is around 4.5 inches. When hatchlings emerge from their eggshells, they measure about 1 inch long. They can triple their size in just a few months. If fed heartily, they can be raised to adults in about three years.

Spotted Turtle Life Span

Spotted turtles can easily outlive their owners. These turtles are known for living more than 100 years, and the oldest on record is still living at more than 150 years old. In order for spotted turtles to reach this age, they need a well-rounded diet.

Spotted Turtle Caging

A medium water-land tub houses approximately one male and three female spotted turtles. You could keep them in an enclosure as large as 5 feet by 5 feet with a water depth of about 5 inches. I wouldn't keep more than 4 males and 15 females in an enclosure this size. Smaller enclosures should have fewer males, or territorial disputes are likely. Add artificial plants to provide comfort and prevent turtles from drowning.

A few different basking spots should be made available to allow your turtle to climb out of the water and completely dry off. This prevents fungus growth on its skin and shell. A heat lamp should be placed about one foot above the basking spot. Submersible filters can also be used to help keep the water clean. Always keep your water clean, clear and cool. Oxygen flow is important, so use a pump to add some splashing at the surface. Be sure the water does not hit a turtle’s basking area, so it can completely dry off. Spotted turtles are poor swimmers, so they should be kept in shallow water about 4 to 6 inches deep. Keeping them in deeper water is a bad idea unless you have experience with these turtles. They often drown in ponds, tanks or other enclosures.

Spotted Turtle Lighting and Temperature

I recommend a water temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit with a basking area of about 90 degrees. Spotted turtles should have a few basking areas. I generally place 100-watt bulbs, which produce substantial heat, about 12 to 15 inches from a basking spot. Heat is necessary for any turtle fighting a respiratory infection, so it is good to provide warmth in case they are not feeling well. A few UVB bulbs should be included, as well. They simulate natural light and assist turtles in synthesizing vitamin D3, which aids calcium absorption.

Spotted Turtle Diet

Spotted turtles feed on a variety of things, but they are mainly carnivorous. Wild turtles feed on just about anything that lives or falls in the water and can fit in their mouth. I have noticed that they prefer foods such as insects and meats. I feed earthworms, waxworms, mealworms, crickets, tadpoles, chicken, crab, turkey, bacon, beef, ReptoMin and trout chow to my turtles. I rarely see them eat greens, but some will consistently feed on them, such as romaine lettuce or vegetation that might grow in your pond.

For the most part, I feed my spotted turtles daily, but it is all right if I miss a day here or there. One year I fed them every other day and actually had more eggs that year. Spotted turtles sometimes feed heavily on one or two specific items then all of a sudden stop eating them completely. At this point you should start offering new foods.

           

In the wild spotted turtles usually feed from late March through late October. Sometimes they eat into early November. A turtle's stomach must be empty before it enters into a full state of hibernation. Otherwise the food will eventually rot in its stomach and possibly kill the turtle.

Spotted Turtle Handling and Temperament

Spotted turtles should be handled sparingly. Hold them only a few times per week for increments of 20 minutes. If you want to breed your turtle, I would advise against handling it; these turtles need to be stress-free. You also may want to avoid handling recently introduced turtles because you need to make sure they are comfortable with their enclosure and surroundings.

20) Asian Box Turtle Care Sheet:

Asian Box Turtle (Cuora amboinensis)

The Asian box turtle is a decent beginner turtle. Sometimes called “ambos,” these turtles have a black or dark brown carapace. Their skin and limbs are black or faded black. They have light yellow streaking on their neck and face. Asian box turtles possess a hinge on their plastron like that of an American box turtle. Males usually have a slightly concave plastron, and females have a flat plastron. Males also have longer, thicker tails.

Asian Box Turtle Availability

Hundreds of thousands of Asian box turtles have been captured to be sold in Asian food markets. Some have been rescued, imported into the United States and dispersed in the pet trade. In the United States there are well-established groups producing offspring.

If you obtain a wild-caught or recently imported Asian box turtle, fully inspect the turtle. Sometimes wild-caught turtles carry or obtain parasites that can hurt the turtle when its immune system is weak, which is usually when it is stressed. Asian box turtles unaccustomed to captivity are prone to stress. Some also arrive dehydrated, so a good soaking is recommended after obtaining your turtle. 

Asian Box Turtle Size

With four subspecies, Asian box turtles range in size based on geographical location. Smaller subspecies measure 5 to 7 inches long, and larger subspecies measure 9 to 12 inches long.

Asian Box Turtle Life Span

Although it depends on the individual, Asian box turtles kept in ideal conditions can outlive their human caretakers. These turtles can live more than 100 years. Some may live up to 150 years. However, most records show a life span around 40 to 60 years. Poor diet, changes in habitat, dirty enclosures and high stress levels seem to play a large role in lower than expected life spans.

Asian Box Turtle Caging

A 20-gallon long tank or large plastic tub is sufficient for one or two Asian box turtles. Sweaterboxes are good for raising smaller ambos. These turtles like water, so creating a setup that is half land and half water is a good idea. Turtles do fairly well in 2 to 4 inches of water, but I have not had problems with turtles kept in 6 to 8 inches of water. I have even kept them outside in a pond as deep as 2 feet.

Water quality is important with keeping any turtle. Always keep your water clean, clear and cool. The ideal water temperature should range from 75 to 88 degrees, with 80 degrees as a good average. Filtered water helps prevent illness. Oxygen flow is key. Water movement allows for more oxygen, but make sure water does not hit a turtle's basking area.

Some Asian box turtles will stay in the water nearly all the time and emerge only to bask. Thus it is important to provide a log, rock or embankment in your pond or enclosure. Your box turtle will use it to climb out of the water and dry off in the warmth of a heat lamp or the sun. Artificial plants help give the turtle some security in the enclosure.

Avoid using gravel as a substrate. Turtles might accidentally swallow some, causing impaction and health problems.

Asian Box Turtle Lighting and Temperature

Some people keep their Asian box turtles outside year round because they can withstand cold temperatures. I keep a few adults outside in New Jersey year round, and they hibernate with some of my other box turtles.

Even though I keep a few of my turtles outside year round, I do not recommend it. They can die easier during hibernation, or the cooling period, than an eastern box turtle or three toed box turtle would. Another good reason not to hibernate this species is because more than likely you will not know their locale which makes it hard to tell if they are cold tolerant. Most imported Asian box turtles come from Indonesia and should not be hibernated at severe cold temperatures, but only cooled to around 50 degrees.

When Asian box turtles are active, try to keep an ambient temperature higher than 70 degrees and a basking area around 90 degrees. If turtles are kept outside during warmer months, the sun should provide all the warmth needed. Turtles burrow down a couple feet or more to prevent freezing in the winter. If turtles are kept inside, provide them with a heat bulb and a UVB light.

Asian Box Turtle Diet

Asian box turtles feed on a variety of foods. They eat romaine lettuce, mealworms, waxworms, night crawlers, small mice, turtle pellets and other commercial turtle foods, bananas, watermelon, tomatoes, blueberries and strawberries. Variety is always a good idea. Also add calcium powder and multivitamins to make sure your turtles get the proper nutrition.

Asian Box Turtle Handling and Temperament

Captive-bred specimens tolerate handling better than imported turtles because of stress issues. However, too much handling, even with a captive turtle imported years ago, may stress out the reptile. Stress can lead to respiratory infections or other illnesses.